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Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

Apple issued a battery recall for this model in June of 2019—so before replacing your battery, you can check to see if you are eligible to receive a replacement for free from Apple.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage your speakers if it comes in contact with the plastic speaker enclosures. Therefore, this guide instructs you to remove the speakers before proceeding to the battery. Removing the speakers requires also removing several other components including the logic board.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How? can you explain the procedure?

    Cosimo Soderi -

    I’m attempting taking the card out but leaving the wires attached as mentioned. A Torx T5 worked for me on that screw. I then very slightly lifted up the end of the card where the wires are attached and pulled it straight out of the slot on the opposite side.

    Sean Gabel -

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did not bother with the danger of removing cables or cards or logic board. I spent 30 mins removing my battery carefully, using string and CT1 multisolve which isn’t dangerous to plastic.

    i slid my string under the battery and see-saw underneath and sprayed Ct1 Multisolve underneath. I’ve now done both my macbooks. Didn’t destroy any cables or risk it. I put a few paper sheets over my logic board to cover any spray back. Simple see-saw and a palstic card, the blue spludger and the black long spluger.

    T Master. - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yes, I did the full board disassembly on my 2012 macbook last year and once I finished I kind of wondered why I didn’t just work on removing the battery. Is there any real obstacle to doing so here? Can I just spend an hour or so carefully removing the battery? What’s the risk of doing that? again, is there any actual obstacle to removing the battery without pulling out the whole board assembly?

    Brian Lamb -

    You can go straight for the battery if you’re confident enough to improvise a little. Removing the board makes sense if you’re trying to protect the speakers from getting chewed up by the solvent. Otherwise, it’s faster and easier to leave the board in place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agreed. Just replaced the battery on my 15” MacBook Pro 2015 and I skipped all instruction between step 6 and 46. I just unplugged the battery and removed the trackpad connection. Used some dental floss to cut through the adhesives and a card to help with carefully prying the batteries up. After the battery was removed I used some isopropanol to clean up from the old glue. Installed new battery, attached the trackpad connection ribbon and connected battery. All in all it took me less than one hour. I would not recommend removing the whole logic board just to replace the battery.

    Mackie72 -

    I’m one of those unfortunate ones that simply followed the iFixit instructions before reading the comments. On successfully reconnecting 2 of the cables and (miserably) failing with the 3rd, I realized the relevance of the comments. I decided to take a gamble and leave the 3rd connector unconnected and fired up my MacBook … strangely enough, everything works fine i.e from the comments, WiFi, Bluetooth, Camera (et al) should be affected but they are all still fully operational (maybe they’ll die with time - I hope not). I don’t like the thought of an unattached cable lying around in my Mac hence I agree with those advocating for alternatives to this step (unhinging the WiFi card as opposed to prying these cables).

    Otim Samuel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Diese drei winzigen Stecker wieder aufzusetzen war tatsächlich die größte Herausforderung der ganzen Reparatur! Wichtig ist dabei darauf zu achten, diese waagerecht und passgenau aufzusetzen. Ich habe dazu die Lupe meiner Lötvorrichtung genutzt und zum aufdrücken die flache Seite des Spudgers.

    Werner Hampl - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    These antenna connectors are the worst to reconnect. Depending on the model and what repair you are doing, you may not be able to avoid disconnecting them.

    ccfman2004 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    Malcolm Hall - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yeah, same here.. Not sure what to do now

    Roman Kroupoderov -

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This video shows how to do it safely: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AabLlHT5...

    Undo the 3 cables gently. remove the airport card. gently pry away the cables fro the fan plastic. then the camera cable will slide out easily.

    T Master. - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  10. Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My cable connector covers are not screwed down. Mid 2015 15” MBP. That’s the computer in the title of this article so idk.

    Andrew Sauk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m having trouble breaking the 2.2 mm screws loose and I don’t want to strip the head. I’m using the T5 screwdriver. Does anyone know any tricks or suggestions?

    Madeline Young - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Ok, so the correct size Torx is the T4, not T5

    Madeline Young -

  11. Remove the left connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  12. Remove the right connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. Peel the I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Peel the I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm screw

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  16. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Using a spudger does help alleviate stress on the cable. I also used it to help get the cable up from being adhered to the logic board.

    Joshua McMillan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Adding to the other comments, the fan is very light and has no resistance lifting out of the place it sits in.

    I carefully lifted the fan just before there was any tension on the cable.

    With the fan held in my right hand and spudger in my left, I moved the spudger under the fan approaching from the left side.

    This allowed me to easily place the flat end of the spudger under the cable where the thicker plastic sits and gently pry the cable up until the cable broke away from the body.

    I then used the pointed part of the spudger to gently pry the connector part of the cable away from the socket while gently pulling the fan away until the cable was disconnected and the entire fan was free.

    David Carroll - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  18. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  20. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

  21. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  22. Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it. Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector. Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

    Oh, you rotated the computer while I wasn’t watching.

    prreitz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  24. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It's interesting that you had to remove the heat pipe screw. This didn't seem to be in the way for me. The I/O board came out quite easily without any issues.

    But… it could be different for others as it was for you. I just thought I'd share my experience.

    David Carroll -

    Thanks for the tip! I also had to remove that screw to get the board out.

    maccentric -

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  25. Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case. Remove the I/O board.
    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

  26. Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board. Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

  28. Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

  29. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Screw with blue circle was in a slightly different position on my logic board; the gold plating surrounding it is the giveaway.

    prreitz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  30. The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

  31. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

    This cable was pretty hard to remove at first. I had to gently wiggle it from side-to-side in the socket before it would let go.

    Jamie Flournoy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  32. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  33. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

  34. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

    The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

    vincentdrummer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same thing happened to me. Didn’t really put much pressure either.

    meadowsd -

    The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

    Bill Klemme - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.

    Mighty Sashiman -

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  36. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

    Bill Klemme - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for calling this out. I took a picture of the socket after disconnecting. I can see why it might have been less obvious on reassembly.

    David Carroll -

    Also on reassembly - when putting in the logic board make sure this connector is not underneath. Once you have the logic board in, double check and if needed you can slightly lift up the logic board (like to take it out) and use the spudger to scoop it out.

    Jason Joyner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  37. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My mid-2015 has a flexible plastic tape on the cable lock bar, pulling the tape up with tweezers easily rotated the locking bar.

    prreitz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  38. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

    The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.

    Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.

    I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.

    Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.

    Robert Habib - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had the same thought as I almost proceeded without noticing the red text warning.

    I especially think the second warning about not touching the contacts on the data connectors should be listed before the instructions on removing it.

    David Carroll -

    Agree with Robert. Suggest “SLIDE the display cable to the right, out of its socket…” would be less misleading.

    prreitz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think it bears repeating just how fragile this connector is, particularly on reinsertion. The problem isn’t just technicians touching the connector end; you can damage the pins simply by inserting it slightly out of alignment, or at an angle, because the outermost pins are VERY close to the edge and are very fragile. They have the appearance of being embedded in the connector but they’re actually spring traces just lying on top of it. I managed to bend the southmost pin upwards reinserting it; luckily it flattened out again and worked, but if it had not been possible to do that it’d have been a whole new screen assembly.

    Jerome - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  39. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

  40. Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

    When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

    Andrey Pirozhenko - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to tape most of the cables out of the way while reinstalling the logic board, because they kept returning to their plugged-in shape under the logic board as I tried to position it properly.

    Jamie Flournoy -

    Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

    Alek Curless - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!

    jonvdez -

    I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.

    Robert Habib -

    if you’re only removing the right speaker, no need to remove the logic board. Simply lift the edge of the logic board to remove the speaker cable.

    Gareth Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to remove one of the screws from the battery board before the logic board had enough clearance to lift up.

    Jim Guyton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  41. Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  42. Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

    Look for multiple tasks to accomplish when doing a major tear down. I had a bad speaker I was putting off and then the battery bloat hit so put in both speakers to make them the same age. Changing out parts on this machine is easy enough with patience and careful adherence to the guides.

    Dennis Newton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  43. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  44. The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case. Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.
    • The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case.

    • Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.

    • On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.

    Small comment on starting the reassembly, make sure to check picture on step 30 so that all connectors are exposed and not covered by logic board, I wasted some time putting the logic board back in and then having to remove it again to expose some of the connectors I missed.

    Rafael Lüder - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    note that it’s possible (even easy) to destroy the right speaker during installation - there’s a metal boss sticking up (when case is upside down) that will hit the speaker.

    mine came back from apple damaged last week and I just swapped that speaker to fix it.

    keen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  45. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

    If you are replacing the LH speaker as well this can be done at this point using steps similar to 41 to 43

    Jaap Van den Berg - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Unbelievable how much teardown is required to replace a speaker.

    maccentric - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  46. Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro. Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro.
    • Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro.

  47. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    Personally I had problems getting the ZIF to disengage, so I disconnected the cable from the other side. Very easy, no problems taking the battery out and dealing with the rest of it.

    Wayne West - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  48. Insert an opening pick between the trackpad ribbon cable and the battery. Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery. The ribbon cable is easily damaged. If necessary, use a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive so you can remove it with less force.
    • Insert an opening pick between the trackpad ribbon cable and the battery.

    • Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • The ribbon cable is easily damaged. If necessary, use a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive so you can remove it with less force.

  49. Remove the trackpad ribbon cable. Remove the trackpad ribbon cable.
    • Remove the trackpad ribbon cable.

    Heads up: I almost destroyed the cable, mistakenly pulling the connector upwards. In stead it needs to be pulled towards the back of the laptop body. The photos do show this, but I didn’t pay enough attention!

    Maaria Kaanaa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I goofed when re-assembling and nearly destroyed this cable. I had installed it *before* removing the plastic film from the replacement battery. Then at the end, when I realized the plastic was still there, I completely forgot the cable was on top of it and pulled it out forcibly while removing the film. Dumb. Happily, it pulled out of the locked slider without damage. But, I am posting this so others can avoid the excitement.

    Greg Tarsa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  50. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

    On an A1398, these were T6, not T5.

    J G - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  51. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    Open screen and put MacBook on it’s side

    Gert Cuykens - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke/pry.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  52. With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book. In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.
    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

    This was my first battery replacement. It would have been encouraging to know that “glued in” means small lines of clue around part of the battery, actually what was once really sticky two-sided tape and not glue all over the entire surface of the battery. As it turned out, my batteries were pretty dried up and I was able to pull them out without a great deal of effort. But, I was preparing for “totally glued in” and spent a lot of time deciding if I wanted to engage in that battle.

    Greg Tarsa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  53. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  54. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  55. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    The “You don't need to use very much” advice turned out to be a bit misleading. The acetone evaporates pretty quickly, especially if you are actually in a well-ventilated area. The adhesive does need a decent amount of acetone to soften enough to let go of the battery. The battery I removed had a substantial amount of adhesive, so at least 8-10 drops per battery cell was required.

    It’s hard to count the number of drops being dispensed while precisely dispensing the solvent underneath the battery (so it doesn’t just splash around and on the top of the battery and evaporate), so my advice is to moisten the adhesive with plenty of solvent.

    Jamie Flournoy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  56. Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell. It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

  57. Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it. Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  58. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  59. Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell. Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath. Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

    • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  60. It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro. It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.
    • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

  61. Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side: Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer left battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate. Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.
    • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer left battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

  62. With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover  down the center line between the two middle battery cells. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
    • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  63. Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  64. Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell. Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.
    • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

  65. Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell. Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable. Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.
    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

    • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

  66. Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell. Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue. Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue.
    • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

    • Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue.

  67. Remove your book or foam block. With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.
    • Remove your book or foam block.

    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

  68. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  69. Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell. Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

    • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  70. If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell. If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell.
    • If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell.

  71. Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell: Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the final battery cell. Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.
    • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the final battery cell.

    • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

  72. Remove the first card that you  inserted under the final battery cell. Remove the first card that you  inserted under the final battery cell.
    • Remove the first card that you inserted under the final battery cell.

  73. With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro. With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.
    • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

  74. Lift and remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Don’t paste the new battery before complete reassembly and testing.

    Gert Cuykens - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When positioning the new battery, pay close attention to the alignment of the two screw holes at the top.

    Tammer Saleh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hear! Hear! - very important :)

    Arnaud Dudemaine -

    I would really appreciate some additional tips on placing the new battery set. I attempted to adhere just the middle two by screwing in the battery management board, but unfortunately I dropped the batteries, and of course, they stuck immediately and needed to be pried out to be seated properly. One I got the middle two placed, I could then peel the backing for the outside four. It’s probably worth mentioning that the outside pair of batteries share space with the speaker assembly, so be careful placing those two.

    Duane Pinkerton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This process was quick and easy. Takes patience but was able to get it done in about 1.5 hours. Getting the adhesive took the longest after getting the battery removed.

    scottn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’d definitely put the speakers back before sticking the new battery down. The new battery got stuck slightly close to where the left speakers was going it, and I was just barely able to make it all fit.

    Henrik Holm - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is there a reason I should adhere the new batteries? I’d opt to leave them detached, if I can. The primary concern is obviously internal movement causing premature wear on the battery cables.

    I'm considering just attaching them all to a thin plastic sheet, that I tack down in a few spots. Maybe extend the sheet so the speaker screws hold it in place…

    Thoughts?

    kwschnautz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You do not need too, but the adhesive is there to keep it secured to the body and not flop around and tap on the lower shell.

    Frank Hammond -

    Ok, studied all of the comments and other videos on Youtube. Dove in last night. But I didn’t remove the logic board. I just used braided string to shimmy down each battery to separate it from the glue backing. That worked great. When putting in the new battery, I made sure that its connector was connected to the laptop, then removed the backing and placed the new battery in place. Laptop powered up, and is now charging. And keep in mind, I paid a little extra for the tools and cards and shims, they were all very helpful. If you are trying to remove a screw you don’t have a tip for, you shouldn’t be removing it. :)

    Steve Cohen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    the kit is actually super cool. the cards and picks were life savers!

    Arnaud Dudemaine -

    It would’ve been helpful to include a list of instructions for replacing all of the parts instead of just making us read the instructions backwards. When I was putting the logic board back on, I didn’t realize that one of the connectors got stuck underneath the board when placing it back into the computer. After reconnecting half of the connectors I realized one of them was stuck underneath so I had to disconnect all of the ones I reconnected to lift the logic board back up and pull out the connecter that got stuck underneath. I forgot to detach the keyboard backlight connecter and when I lifted to logic board the pull out the connecter stuck underneath, I snapped the keyboard backlight cable that was still attached. Luckily this isn’t a major component and I don’t really use the keyboard backlight that much anyway, but if you included a list of instructions for reattaching everything I probably wouldn’t have had this problem.

    Jake Benrubi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    These instructions….. Really???

    I just unplugged the battery, unplugged that cable that went over the battery, and unscrewed the two screws holding the battery.

    I then pried the batteries away without any chemicals and put in the new battery. Plugged in the two connectors and screwed everything back in place.

    I didn’t need to completely disassemble the macbook.

    Tycho Pandelaar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I actually did he same

    though I unfortunately damaged the old battery trying to do this (but luckily nothing else) - big scare!!!

    - if you try this method - PLEASE DO NOT USE ANY SHARP/METAL TOOLS to try pry the battery out -

    the plastic credit cards work fine if you wedge them in the corners to start gently - but firmly leveraging / shimmying your way under.

    However, I was lucky, the batteries came out quite easily (don’t be afraid of the sound of tearing adhesive tape) and some people might have super stuck batteries and need to use the liquid - which then means you have to protect everything from the acetone in case it leaks onto circuitry.

    Thanks Tycho, you saved me a world of anguish disassembling the whole contraption. firm, gentle and patient worked fine without liquid for me.

    Good luck all you fixers !!!

    Arnaud Dudemaine -

    I have an additional suggestion on placing the new battery. With the laptop case hinge away from you, I put a piece of masking tape from the bottom (closer) right corner of the new battery pack to the bottom left corner of the battery pack with some slack in it. This allows you to pick up the bottom edge of the batteries in an arc, and position and place the center ones first. I screwed in the battery controller, pulled the heavy plastic backing off of the batteries, then placed the center batteries, followed by the outside ones. be careful to stick the tape firmly. The last thing you want is the batteries coming free and falling to the case and sticking wherever they land. Good luck. This was the most stressful step for me. While you’re reassembling, give the fans and the fins of the heat exchangers a good dust with canned air. :)

    Duane Pinkerton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The protective film covering the adhesive is one long strip that keeps the batteries aligned. It’s kind of stiff and part of it sticks out preventing the center batteries from aligning properly, so I couldn’t really check the fit. Once I pulled off the film, the left and right batteries became difficult to manage and I ended up dropping a couple prematurely. In hindsight, I think it would have been helpful to cut the film between the cells and cut out the part that was in the way first.

    Gregg Michael Ferrer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This was quite easy. Follow the sequence. I took a 50cm long wide tape where I put the screws head down on in order to have them in the right sequence while assembling the machine again. Timeframe was 1.5 hours.

    Thomas Weber - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    All in all this was a great kit. The worst part is step 6. Pulling the 3 little wires off the airport card. Honestly, I would probably just take the entire card off vs those three wires… With respect to putting the new battery in, line up the two screw holes in the battery chips with the case. I also installed the speakers first just to make sure that I’d get the placement right. Other than that, there are a lot of ribbon cables so be meticulous and take it slow. This took about 3 hours to break everything down and about half an hour to put everything back together. Good luck!

    Zachary Levi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Like many others here; I did not do all the steps. I would have surely broken something else. Once I (carefully) disconnected the battery and track pad ribbon cable and carefully moved them aside, I then applied the solution to the batteries to loosen the adhesive. Put my Macbook Pro on a slant to keep the solution from running everywhere, btw. Then I used dental floss to cut thru the adhesive. Didn’t have to work at it much because my batteries had swelled to the point where they had mostly dislodged themself from the adhesive. Great kit and loved that iFixit did not skimp on the tools and accessories. What a difference a new battery makes!!! After charging it and then draining it (calibrating) it seemed like it took forever for the battery to drain. Thanks iFixit!

    Joseph Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0