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Replace the RAM in your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.

Originally, the maximum possible RAM configuration was 8 GB. However, systems running OS X 10.7.5 (or higher), updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules can support up to 16 GB of RAM. —Source

  1. Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.
    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    crwdns2888375:0gansodesoyacrwdne2888375:0

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. Release the tabs on each side of the chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.
    • Release the tabs on each side of the chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.

    • These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  5. After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.
    • After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.

    • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

    Do this step slowly! Depending on the age of the components, both ram and the system board, removing and inserting RAM can actually break threads on the board that read and write info to the ram sticks. It should be very easy to remove the ram. If it seems hard to remove, stop and make sure you have followed all the steps correctly!

    Everett Whiteman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Walter Galan

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crwdns2892924:09crwdne2892924:0

Hello,

Please answer this question. Today i purchase Macbook Pro core2duo model: A1278 year: 2010 Laptop and i found the ram is 2gb DDR3 1333mhz bus speed.

So will 1333mhz bus speed support my macbook or it will crash randomly ? or i should buy another ram of 1066mhz bus speed.

Thanks.

Muhammad Talha - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

The front side buss speed is 1066mhz so that the speed the board talks to everything including memory, it can't talk any faster so putting 1333mhz will run at 1066mhz. So I would go with 1066mhz and save your money. If you also make sure you firmware for the board is up-to-date and you are running latest OS it can take you should've able to run 16GB ram, even if apple say it only supports 8GB. If you get the correct ram you can run 16GB that's what I have in mine running high Sierra. In have same system as you. You may also want to think about adding a solid state drive in place of the drive that's in with will probably be a mechanical drive. Believe me you will seen the difference in speed when the system starts up etc.

Gordon -

Be careful ! according to different other customers experience (read ifixit forum) and my own, it might be a hit or a miss.

I tried the upgrade to 16gb, no matter where or which one of the 8gb ram module is place, the Mac doesn’t want to recognize more than one module at a time, so I ended with 8+2=10gb , which is still an upgrade but deceiving money wise.

Sebastien CHAPUIS - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Which MHz speed do your 8 GB modules have? If both are faster then 1333 then the Mac will not startup. I can combine a original 2 GB 1066MHz module with a 8GB 1600MHz to 10GB then the older module decides the speed and it works. But if both are the 1600MHz then the bios will not boot and I get an error signal. Will see if it could be cheaper to just get one 8GB module with 1066 or 1333 that forces the 1600 to work at lower speed.

Claes -

Hi Sebastien,

My machine had similar symptoms. See my comment below. GL!

bprima -

Today I did my first repairs on my MacBook Pro 2010. I replaced feet, battery and upgraded both RAM chips from 2GB each to 8GB each. The only issue was that it wouldn’t turn on. :( After a little bit of panic and self doubt as to why I would ever consider doing this, I back tracked a bit. I uninstalled both Rams and put my old back in. My computer worked fine. Then I just tried each new and old, in combination, to find the culprit. Turns out that one of the new chips must be defective.

I am a happy girl! I sincerely thank you all for posting your videos ,comments and especially your mistakes. They give me courage and inspiration to forge ahead on this wonderful road of repair! Thank you iFixit and Right to Repair!

Peggy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I had a similar issue others have described wherein the machine (MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010) would recognize either of the new IFixIt sticks in either position when paired with either of the OEM sticks (8 permutations tested, LOL), but not both new sticks paired together. OSX, SMC, EFI and associated firmware appeared up-to-date. Purchased a different set of 2x8GB sticks from a competitor and they worked like a charm. Noticeable performance increase from factory 4GB and from 10GB hybrid. To their credit, IFixIt accepted my return without question despite being well past their standard 30-day policy. Very happy with them, and will continue to give them my business.

FWIW, new (working) RAM appears identical, spec-wise: 2x8GB PC3-8500 1066MHz. Timings are printed 7-7-7-20. Couldn’t find timing noted on IFixIt RAM. I wouldn’t think a difference would matter… maybe the IFixIt memory wasn’t compatible with the controller in some way. Anyway, a potential solution to try.

bprima - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I bought 2 8gb ddr3 pc3-8500 1066mhz 204 pin ram sticks. My mac is the mid 2010 core duo version with updated 10.13 os highsierra so i would expect the ram to load and the mac to boot, but it didn't. It beeped 3 times. I reset the pram and reloaded the original ram and it works like it did. I'm wondering if something is wrong with the new ram or if it might be necessary to reset the scm(?) too? There seems to be small differences in the new ram versus the old aswell, worthy of note.

Chris Martindale - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I tried several ram memory replacements for this mac model even the ones recommended by Apple. But whenever I tried to start the computer just beeped giving the cannot recognize ram memory sound. Any ideas what went wrong?

Best

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