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MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Lower Case: crwdns2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
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    Magnetic Project Mat
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    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Connector: crwdns2935265:04crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

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    • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

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    • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

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    • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

    • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

    • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Contact Board: crwdns2935265:09crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Contact Board: crwdns2935265:09crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0
    • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

    • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Heat Sink Assembly: crwdns2935265:010crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board assembly:

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 3.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Four 2.7 mm T5 Torx screws

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    • Lift and remove the heat sink up off the logic board assembly.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, I/O Board Data Cable: crwdns2935265:012crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, I/O Board Data Cable: crwdns2935265:012crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

    • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

    • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Right Fan: crwdns2935265:015crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Right Fan: crwdns2935265:015crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Right Fan: crwdns2935265:015crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the right fan ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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    • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board assembly.

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    • Lift and remove the right fan out of the upper case.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Left Fan: crwdns2935265:018crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Left Fan: crwdns2935265:018crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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    • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board assembly.

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    • Lift and remove the left fan out of the upper case.

    • Make sure to pull the left fan straight away to simultaneously pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

    • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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    • Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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    • Pry the headphone jack cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

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    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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    • Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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    • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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    • Remove the nine 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board and MagSafe DC-in board to the upper case.

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    • Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case.

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    • Gently push the edges of the MagSafe cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

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    • Pull the MagSafe cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

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iFixit crwdns2935289:0iFixitcrwdne2935289:0

Staff

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Thanks a lot for this guide ! I completed it with no problems… I never did this kind of unmount/repair and thanks to the iFixit  Essential Electronics Toolkit, ++Arctic Silver Thermal Paste++ and Arctic Silver ArctiClean it was a breeze to complete. I think I have put too much thermal paste but it is no problem. The macbook now works like a charm.

Martin Michiels - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

Missing instructions on how to remove iSight camera cord during removal of right fan.

You can find it under step 15 of the logic board removal.

Otherwise so far it’s a great tutorial.

Daniel McCulley - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

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