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    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
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    • Before proceeding, close your computer and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the eight 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

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    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

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    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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    • Use a spudger to help lift the free end of the SSD just enough to grab it with your other hand.

    • Do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

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    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

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    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

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    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

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    • Do not touch or squeeze the six lithium polymer cells when handling the battery.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

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    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the right speaker cable from the slot cut into the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

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    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

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    • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case near the display data cable.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

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    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

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    • Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

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    • Gently lift the logic board assembly out of the upper case, minding the fragile heat sink and any cables that may get caught.

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    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

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    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

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    • Remove the eight 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

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    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all eight screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • Logic board remains.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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crwdns2944067:07crwdne2944067:0

Another Great Guide by you guys! Thanks

ubenice - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

This Logic board is compatible with a macbook air 11inch 2011 model?

Aprimus - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

Just so you guys know I could successfully reaplace the A1370 Core2Duo Late 2010 board for a A1370 i7 Mid 2011 board. you are going to need the heatsink and battery from the newer model as well. the problem I am facing right now is the wifi/bluetooth antenna been too short for the new position of the airport card. as soon as I get a chance I'll try to re route the cables and try to fix it.

igorfeghali - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

Igorfeghali, another question: why do you need the battery too?

kautame -

Hello everybody,

I made it too: I replaced my 2GB RAM C2D-logic board in my native 11” 2011 MBA for a 2nd-hand “ i5 1,6 GHz / 4GB RAM” logic board. The same here: you will need a 2011 battery (the connector of the 2010 battery is too far left for the connector of the 2011 logic board). My logic board luckily came w/ native fan and heatsink, so my only challenge will now be to get BT and WIFI antenna cable long enough to fit the new place of the bt/wifi-card.

@igorfeghali, and others: How did you manage this problem? Any idea for an adapter-cable? Any suggestions, anybody?

Thank you, alle the best,

Chris

Chris -

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