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Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement

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  1. Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement, Scroll Wheel: crwdns2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0
    • Use your fingers or a nylon spudger to remove the specified mouse feet in order to reveal the screws.

  2. Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:02crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0
    • Use a #00 Philips screw bit to remove the indicated 12.5mm screws.

    Why does this say 12.5mm screws? These screws are only about 4.5mm long from the head to the end of the shank.

    Jer Hannu - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

  3. Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    • Use a nylon spudger to pry the top shell from the bottom of the mouse.

  4. Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:04crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:04crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:04crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    • Use a nylon spudger to push the fastener pin free.

    • Be careful not to lose two springs near the front of the mouse underneath the wheel housing. Place them aside safely.

  5. Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:05crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:05crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 Logitech G502 Proteus Core Scroll Wheel Replacement: crwdns2935265:05crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    • Once the pin is removed, use a #00 Phillips screw bit to remove the 7.5mm screw from the scroll wheel holder.

    • Once the plastic scroll wheel holder is off, the scroll wheel is free and can be lifted out.

    The scroll wheel isn’t free at this point, it’s still being held in place by the plastic arms and is pretty hard to take out.

    Ovidiu Dragoi - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

    Lol thats not even the last step. There are pins on the side which is the hardest part to do.

    bohnny jewnami - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

    In my case I only had to clean the sensor

    Tomas Trimailovas - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sage Farray

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UW Tacoma, Team S3-G1, Liner Spring 2017 crwdns2935289:0UW Tacoma, Team S3-G1, Liner Spring 2017crwdne2935289:0

UWT-LINER-S17S3G1

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Reverse order to reassemble, as usual, is not the right solution :(, for me it worked to place the plastic back horizontally (not in diagonal like on step 3) and then push really hard from the middle to the end of the mouse, till it clicks. Btw I needed to open my mouse because right click started to fail, and now left click as well, it seems the electronic part works ok, but the tiny coshing that press on it got deformed and is barely clicking it now, I need to add something there like a paper to gain 1 mm so it can be pressed back

leonardo.fucci - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

In mine the laser suddenly stopped working. I followed this guide to some extent to try and see if reconnecting the cable would fix it.

Some notes:

- If you want to keep the mouse feet, take care to get them off completely and not in two layers.

- There is a plastic clip at the left side of the housing holding top and bottom together, just above the thumb rest. It will break if forced open.

- The white/ blue flatcable sticking out at the back side at exhibit 4-A is the one that goes to the laser. If you have the same issue, reconnect it and stop here.

- If you want to take the mouse apart any further, there are 2 more screws hidden in the black plastic part that holds the scroll wheel housing (which will also break if forced open).

If you hadn't figured by now, I will be going to the store for a new one later today.

I do not know if re-seating the flatcable resolved the issue.

Vincent - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

The scroll wheel does not just "lift out". The clear plastic is quite tight with very little give.
Also, that metal bracket has to be removed to get it out which will require the two tricky little springs to be unhooked and removed.
Once that is done getting the wheel free as is seen in the last photo is still a bit tricky.
What worked for me:
Grasp the forward exposed part of the wheel with fingers of one hand and the plastic housing with fingers of the other.
While applying constant pulling pressure, pop the "concave" side out first (there is a slight difference in the axle stub lengths), then rock it slightly to pop the "convex" side out.
It took me 20 minutes of careful spudger prying, and finger pressing and pulling before accidentally popping it out in this way.
Hopefully it all goes back together as easy.

Jer Hannu - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

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