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Users of this guide will be able to remove the connections from the motherboard to gain access to their battery. This repair is much more difficult compared to other phones' battery replacements. Be careful not to damage any other components during the repair.
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The microSD card tray is located on the upper right hand side of the phone, above the volume buttons. To open the tray, insert a microSD card eject tool, or a paperclip, into the small hole in the microSD card tray.
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Then press the tool or paperclip to eject the microSD card tray.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole besides the SIM card tray, located on the upper section of the left edge of the phone.
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Press to eject the tray.
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Using a plastic opening pick or a spudger, gently pry and remove the cover on top of the case.
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Remove the two 4 mm T5 Torx screws on the top of the case.
Be sure to remove the SIM tray and memory card tray prior to removing back case! Bent mine because that step was missing.
The black plastic piece that runs across the top is very thin and is stuck on with very strong tape.
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Work a plastic opening pick around the perimeter of the device to separate the rear case from the display assembly.
The SIM Card and SD Card's need to be removed before the case will come apart.
I found a video showing someone using a 2 to 3 inch length scraper razor blade around the perimeter. On my second HTCM9 battery swap I found that leading with a square tipped X-Acto blade to begin the opening, and leaving the trailing, “already opened” gap “wedged” open with the scraper blade helped smoothly open from top (IR header) to bottom (micro USB charger port). A conventional spudger pries open too quickly and can damage and misshape the LCD’s soft bezel. The bezel surround is a much softer compound than the rear case. You can work the rear case loose by gently prying the back’s perimeter outward and occasionally inward as you progress. There are four tabs on the LCD assembly (i.e. nearby and under the pliers in step 5) on each side that protrude into the rear case. Push in toward the back, and pry outward on the back case seam around the vicinity of the tabs. This action provides clearance for the tab to loose from the case tab slot.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use a pair of tweezers to get underneath the white and blue cable connectors and gently push them upwards to disconnect them.
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Remove the two 1.5 mm screws that secure the battery connector to the motherboard, using a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the battery connector from its socket.
When reassembling the phone, be sure to attach the battery connector correctly before screwing it down. It has a rectangular connector that may not seat correctly if simply screwed down.
On my new battery the connector was not aligned precisely so the battery was not connected properly to the motherboard after screwing it in. The connector is supposed to hold on it’s own without the screws. If the connector does not hold to the motherboard without the screws, make sure that the connector is actually plugged in properly and only screw it in once it holds by itself.
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Peel back the Kapton tape from the ZIF connectors.
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Use a spudger or your fingernail to lift the hinged retainer clips on the ZIF connectors, and gently slide the cables out.
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Using the tweezers, carefully lift the tape covering the electrical strip, as shown in the picture.
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Use a spudger or your fingernail to lift the hinged retainer clip on the ZIF connector, and slide the cable out.
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Peel back the Kapton tape from the remaining three ZIF connectors, then use a spudger or your fingernail to lift the hinged retainer clips on the ZIF connectors, and slide the cables out from each.
For the featured ZIF header in step 10, which originates from under the circuit board, after liberating the yellow-clear tape I used a “Plackers” dental flosser “pointed end” to carefully lift up from under the ZIF ribbon.
the third connector what is that one for? my screen was sometimes flicker and that connector is loose from underneath the motherboard
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Remove the dual LED flash cover with a pair of tweezers. The cover is held on with a small amount of adhesive.
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Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the two antenna cables near the camera.
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Disconnect the antenna cable near the bottom right of the phone.
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Remove the three 4 mm T5 Torx screws that secure the motherboard.
Great guide just one crucial warning missing! When removing the battery which is underneath the power/SD/volume cable make sure you see that and carefully remove the battery without tearing it apart! Had to learn the hard way. Fortunately it's replaceable..
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Use a pair of tweezers to lift the vibrator out of its slot.
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Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive at the bottom of the motherboard.
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Use a plastic opening tool, or a spudger, along the edges of the case to gently pry the motherboard out of the case.
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Gently lift the motherboard out of the case, beginning from the top corner (near the camera).
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Using tweezers, remove the tape from the bottom of the battery.
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Use a spudger to carefully pry the battery up from the display assembly.
Bei mir war der Akku fest verkebt, mit Klebesteifen ganz rechts und ganz links. Auch direkt unter dem Flachbandkabel zur Einschalt- und Lautstärketaste. Um den Akku auszubauen musste ich deshalb richtig Kraft aufwänden und das sehr empfindliche Kabel ist dabei gerissen. nachher habe ich gesehen, dass man die Leiste mit Einschalt- und Lautstärketaste hätte lösen können, sodass das Flachabndkabel nicht im Weg liegt.
Ich empfehle das Lösen der Leiste VOR dem Ausbau des Akkus!
Falls es doch schief geht: HTC One M9 Plus Laut Leise Ein Aus Taste Power Button Volume Flex Kabel kann man online erwerben.
Na perfekt, den Tipp hätte ich ganz zu Anfang gebrauchen können. Zeigt mal wieder, dass man Anleitungen erstmal komplett lesen sollte bevor man loslegt. Hab das Kabel richtig schön abgerissen weil es nirgendwo erwähnt wird. Mal sehen wie ich weiter mache, ich tendiere gerade dazu mich dem M9 geschlagen zu geben und bei Bedarf meiner Lebensgefährtin den Akku in das M8S zu setzen, passt da ja auch…nie wieder HTC.
This is where I severed the sd card cable. :(
Just reiterating the comments above, the battery is held on by glue strips on the left and right. I used a spludger to slowly prise the battery away from the glue on both sides, and was then able to get the battery out.
Take extreme care near the power and volume buttons. It's better to move this out of the way while doing this.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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I replaced the battery now but encountered a problem, as my phone wasn't working properly afterwards. When I switched on, it kind of reset to default and the play store app kept crashing, so I had to do a factory reset
Removal went as directed, about to attempt in reverse! Wish me luck
Done all of this by the book but phone won't turn on charge screen lights up and charges but still won't turn on please help
You tore the power and volume button cable. It's a $10 replacement, no big deal. I did the same thing even after having repaired phones for years now.
Jonah -
For me works everything except touch screen :/ i dont know what i done wrong... screen works good, but can't touch it
Those snap on antenna connectors are the hardest part of this job. Really hard to line up to reconnect them. I was initially sent a bad battery, so I had to go through the whole process again with a good battery the second time, and it worked just fine. I would not want to make another attempt with those antenna connections though. I think they're easy to distort, and not made for frequent disconnects and reconnects.
I would say explicitly to disconnect the battery connector since i did not and saw some magic sparks frying one of the connectors of the motherboard
Cool, success! I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my electronic repairs/assemblies. With these phones these days, we could've powered the moon landing...from a mobile pc that fits in our hands...so needless to say, it's a fight for space (no pun intended, but I laughed later) inside the cases, so batteries being a huge consumer of ever diminishing space, I'm surprised we can even get these out at all!
Tolle Anleitung haber mit ihr gestern erfolgreich denn Akku in meinem m9 wechseln können. Handy funktioniert tadellos
Un bon tuto pour le changement de batterie. Je rajouterai juste une chose, les nappes ne sont pas faciles à remettre, il faut bien faire attention et faire un test d’allumage avant de refermer le téléphone !!!
Successfully replaced my battery. After restarting my phone the vibration was super loud as the motor was loose in its seat. I had to stick a piece of double sided tape above the vibration motor to help sandwich it into place when the back cover was fitted. Working fine now.
We replaced the battery, all went well! Phone turns on, charging good, but when putting the SIM card back in, the phone is not recognizing it. We put the SIM card in our iPad, and it’s recognized there. So there isn’t a problem with the SIM card. Any suggestions?
Hi I tore the cable for the power button. Does the new cable need soldering?
I have just successfully replaced the battery in my HTC One M9, yay!
Beware: On my new battery the connector was not aligned precisely so the battery was not connected propery to the motherboard after screwing it in. The connector is supposed to hold on it’s own without the screws. If the connector does not hold to the motherboard without the screws, make sure that the connector is actually plugged in properly and only screw it in once it holds by itself.
I did not know this 15 minutes ago and thought i had destroyed by phone, but it was just a loose battery-connector. :-)
Thank you very much for this manual!
Completed battery replacement, but killed GPS, brightness sensor, cameras, flashlight, sd card drive, top speaker.
I checked all connections multiple times, swapped out the cable to the daughter board, tried a new daughter board. Nothing.
Difficult indeed.
I’d like to thank iFixit for having this guide and the tools needed. This was my first repair attempt. Still not working, though. Before I pursue buying the charging port from another vendor (which I was having trouble with towards the end of its life and why I’m doing this repair now as opposed to 2 years ago), I want to confirm a few things.
Before I continue, I’d like to just note that no lights are going on, nothing is getting hot, and the portable battery (which turns off if it doesn’t detect that it’s charging anything) turns off after plugging in to phone.
One: Do we have to reapply any adhesives?
Two: Does the tape, if it’s no longer sticky, have to be purchased separately, or does that not matter?
Three: Do I need to apply any thermal paste?
If I did everything right (and the charging port is the real problem) I’d actually rate this as not difficult.
I attempted this tutorial, and the phone now won’t turn on. I’ve got it plugged into the charger, and the charging LED does not light up, nor does the charging symbol appear on my screen. What could the problem be?
I can’t clip the battery connector back into its socket no matter how hard I try?
Cool, thanks for this guide! I have replaced the battery with a new one and everything works just fine. There is still life in this old girl. I forgot how nice the stereo sound works when watching videos. :) Thanks!
PS. To reconnect the signal cables use a pair of tweezers to hold the connector in place and push it in with a fine screwdriver tip. You should hear and feel a distinctive “click” indicating the connector is seated properly.