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Xbox 360 E won’t power on. Sometimes it’s the brick…sometimes it isn’t.

Symptom: Brick light is orange, stays orange. Console will not power on by any method.

  1. Fix Xbox 360 E That Won't Power on, Mosfet: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Open the console, remove the hdd/dvd caddy, unplug (but no need to remove) fan. Locate mosfet at U5A1.

  2. Fix Xbox 360 E That Won't Power on: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Use kapton tape to secure the surrounding components.

  3. Fix Xbox 360 E That Won't Power on: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Flux it, hot air (medium low air pressure), remove. I found that I had to crank my hot air station to 375 degrees, at lower temps it just wasn't budging.

  4. Fix Xbox 360 E That Won't Power on: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • The soldering was as follows: From mobo L3B1 (north side) 5v, in to converter Input. From converter Output 3.3v, in to L5A1 (east side). From converter ground in and ground out (both) to the housing of the analog a/v module.

    • I removed the pin headers from the converter board. I fixed the converter to an empty space using gorilla double sided tape (thicker kind). You can hot glue or whatever you decide.

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The worst part of this project was wasting hours upon hours sifting through an ocean of irrelevant internet posts which had nothing to offer but 'power brick bad get new one'. Voltage test on power brick showed 5v standby, and tripping the 12v showed 12v and brick light turned green. Power brick ruled out. There are tutorials elsewhere on how to do that test.

I began testing for standby power from the power button board back across the motherboard until I finally found 5v, which was in the vicinity of L3B1. I noticed that at U5A1 I had 5v coming in but zero volts coming out.

I decided to search for issues specifically related to U5A1. I found a couple videos in foreign languages with no English sub titles. It was enough for me to know that U5A1 should be showing 3.3v output.

In one video the guy used a variable voltage converter to bypass the U5A1 mosfet, in the other video the guy used what I think is a piece of the dvd board he cut off. I decided against using the variable voltage controller because if that part of the daughter board ever failed the receiving component would take the full 5v (or more), not sure if that would be catastrophic. I opted for a simple 5v to 3.3v converter. Found some on Amazon 10 for $10.00.

Console now powers on and off normally.

This was not a paid project. It was for a family member who has like 3-5 games they like to play once in a great while. It would've been less time consuming to hop on e-bay and buy a replacement console, which I did recommend. However the allure of the challenge was irresistible.

I also took this opportunity to do a re-paste since that has never been done to this unit.

Good luck, hope this helps some of you.

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RebTech

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