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  1. To start removing screws, you must first remove the battery, by squeezing the sides of the battery, as shown in the photos, and lighting it up and away from the drone. To start removing screws, you must first remove the battery, by squeezing the sides of the battery, as shown in the photos, and lighting it up and away from the drone. To start removing screws, you must first remove the battery, by squeezing the sides of the battery, as shown in the photos, and lighting it up and away from the drone.
    • To start removing screws, you must first remove the battery, by squeezing the sides of the battery, as shown in the photos, and lighting it up and away from the drone.

  2. There are 6 screws on the top of the drone. Four of them are located under the battery, and the other two are right on the back end of the drone. They are all 5.8mm long, and have a 1.5mm hex head, I, however, found that they are easier to remove using a T6H Torx bit.
    • There are 6 screws on the top of the drone. Four of them are located under the battery, and the other two are right on the back end of the drone. They are all 5.8mm long, and have a 1.5mm hex head, I, however, found that they are easier to remove using a T6H Torx bit.

  3. Now, flip over the drone, and orient it with the camera facing you. You should remove the camera/gimbal cover at this point, but its probably a good idea to leave the gimbal brace in place. Remove the four closest screws circled in red. The ones closest to the front are 5.8mm long, with a 2mm diameter, while the ones closer to the rear of the drone are 4.8mm long, with a 1.5mm diameter. Be careful not to confuse these screws when reassembling the drone.
    • Now, flip over the drone, and orient it with the camera facing you. You should remove the camera/gimbal cover at this point, but its probably a good idea to leave the gimbal brace in place.

    • Remove the four closest screws circled in red. The ones closest to the front are 5.8mm long, with a 2mm diameter, while the ones closer to the rear of the drone are 4.8mm long, with a 1.5mm diameter. Be careful not to confuse these screws when reassembling the drone.

    1 of those screws (top left one in the picture) has glue in it (so DJI support can detect tampering, to void the warranty)

    do you know what glue is used? so we can reapply the glue ourselves to keep the warranty.

    Efari - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It looks like a small amount of hot glue. I don’t think DJI cares though, as after I repaired my drone myself it was struck by a bird. I then sent it to DJI for repair and they repaired/replaced it at no cost to me.

    Andrew spoelstra - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. There are screws under these covers, which need to be removed, as they hold the top plate in place. to do this, you need to take something sharp, a flat edge hobby knife, for example, and pop the cover up out of place in the front end, and then work your way around to the rear of them, once you get to the back, it should pop right off. You will need to do this on both the left and right side of the drone. My apologies, the wrong area is in focus in these pictures, but I feel that they can still serve their purpose adequately.
    • There are screws under these covers, which need to be removed, as they hold the top plate in place. to do this, you need to take something sharp, a flat edge hobby knife, for example, and pop the cover up out of place in the front end, and then work your way around to the rear of them, once you get to the back, it should pop right off.

    • You will need to do this on both the left and right side of the drone.

    • My apologies, the wrong area is in focus in these pictures, but I feel that they can still serve their purpose adequately.

  5. There are two 1.5mm hex screws, these are 5.8mm long, with a 2mm diameter. These are thicker than the screws holding the covers down, because those screws are only holding the covers down, while the screws under it are holding the top cover down. Take note of this during reassembly.
    • There are two 1.5mm hex screws, these are 5.8mm long, with a 2mm diameter. These are thicker than the screws holding the covers down, because those screws are only holding the covers down, while the screws under it are holding the top cover down. Take note of this during reassembly.

  6. First, turn the drone over, so it is right side up, and facing away from you. Now, use a metal spudger to pry open the rear end of the case. Be careful not to pull too far up,  as there is still a cable which is connecting the two pieces. Slide the spudger down the length of each side, undoing all the clips along the way, stop 1-2 cm before the ending of the battery cradle. Slide the spudger down the length of each side, undoing all the clips along the way, stop 1-2 cm before the ending of the battery cradle.
    • First, turn the drone over, so it is right side up, and facing away from you. Now, use a metal spudger to pry open the rear end of the case. Be careful not to pull too far up, as there is still a cable which is connecting the two pieces.

    • Slide the spudger down the length of each side, undoing all the clips along the way, stop 1-2 cm before the ending of the battery cradle.

  7. Gently lift up the rear of the top case .5-1mm, and insert a pair of tweezers, grab the black cloth shielded cable connecting the top and bottom, and gently pull it up and away from the bottom board. The rear should lift freely up from the case 2-3mm. Gently lift up the rear of the top case .5-1mm, and insert a pair of tweezers, grab the black cloth shielded cable connecting the top and bottom, and gently pull it up and away from the bottom board. The rear should lift freely up from the case 2-3mm. Gently lift up the rear of the top case .5-1mm, and insert a pair of tweezers, grab the black cloth shielded cable connecting the top and bottom, and gently pull it up and away from the bottom board. The rear should lift freely up from the case 2-3mm.
    • Gently lift up the rear of the top case .5-1mm, and insert a pair of tweezers, grab the black cloth shielded cable connecting the top and bottom, and gently pull it up and away from the bottom board. The rear should lift freely up from the case 2-3mm.

  8. Insert your metal spudger in between the top and bottom case on both the left and right sides of the drone, as shown in the photo. Pry up gently until it is free.
    • Insert your metal spudger in between the top and bottom case on both the left and right sides of the drone, as shown in the photo. Pry up gently until it is free.

  9. This part is tricky. There are four clips folding the front edge in place. Half are facing one direction and half are facing he opposite direction. Be gentle and careful when disengaging them. The photos here, show the locations and directions of the clips. This part is tricky. There are four clips folding the front edge in place. Half are facing one direction and half are facing he opposite direction. Be gentle and careful when disengaging them. The photos here, show the locations and directions of the clips.
    • This part is tricky. There are four clips folding the front edge in place. Half are facing one direction and half are facing he opposite direction. Be gentle and careful when disengaging them. The photos here, show the locations and directions of the clips.

    In the step 9 the two clips at middle can be opened by prying from the bottom through the two sqare holes in front of the gimble (picture at step 4). But be careful as there is a small circuit at the centre. Put in a small flat screw driver and push the clip towards the back of the drone.

    mustafa syed mahmood Musawir - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew spoelstra

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Business

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I had a crash .a small crash. looking down on the drone it would be the rear view and is the left rear folding arm ,the stop for this arm when unfolded the crash broke the stop for the left rear arm . I have used a glue to reset the stop how ever I think this is only a very temp fix I think I will have to replace the hole under structure case for the drone . sorry my name is David from Saskatchewan . Canada

David Hall - 1 minute ago Edit Delete Reply

Add Comment

David Hall - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Honestly, I would highly recommend you replace any pieces that show any cracks, or structural flaws, as the last thing you want is that glue giving out during a flight and your drone plummeting to the ground. The plastic case pieces and the arms are not very expensive, compared to the cost of a worse crash as a result of one because of cracked glue. Good luck!

Andrew spoelstra -

I guess it’s going to be difficult to insert the GPS cable again.

Juan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Actually you can reconnect it before you start clipping the case into place, you just have to be careful and gentle with it.

Andrew spoelstra -

I have broken one of the wires of the piug in under the shell that goes to the gps on mavic pro can it be bought seperate

John Hinckle - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I have broken one of the wires of the plug in under the shell that goes to the gps on the mavic pro can it be bought seperate

John Hinckle -

Yes it can just look up mavic gps module or something of the sort.

Jesse Zimmer -

Just bought the top shell to replace on my mavic 2 my question is, when disconnecting the gps from the old shell, the new shell I bought does not have a gps cord on the back of it. Is it supposed to come with the new shell?

Dominic Coppola - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

If you are replacing the upper shell like I just did (due to a tree branch punching a hole in it - ouch!) then there a couple more steps not shown here. There is a metal plate secured with two Philips head screws that needs to be removed to expose the GPS unit at the rear of the top shell. Then the GPS unit needs to be unclipped and it and the metal plate need to be transferred to the new upper shell. I also peeled off the large sticker in the base of the battery compartment and transferred this to the new upper shell, as it contains a bunch of information about the drone (including serial number etc).

Aaron Doty -

Thanks Andrew - very useful guide. I think I would have despaired at the point of trying to unclip the front edge, if you had not noted how ‘tricky’ this would be (understatement!).

PS. It would be great if you could add tools needed to this guide - it was only when I sat down to do the job that I realised I didn’t have a 1.5mm hex screwdriver needed to remove all the screws.

Aaron Doty - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Thanks for the instructions. My upper case is broken and I want to change it for a new one. How to I transfer the GPS Part into the new case? Thanks a lot. Best.

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