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We are going to teach you how to attach a new solar panel to the device
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Remove the battery compartment lid by lifting upward.
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Pull the ribbon to eject the 2 X AA alkaline batteries.
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Once the batteries are removed, it is safe to proceed.
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Remove the four 0.8cm screws that attach the bottom panel to the device
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Gently lift the top section of the weather center away from the base. With all the screws removed it should lift off easily.
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Remove the four 0.8cm screws inside the case located near the fan using the J1 screw bit.
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Remove the three 0.8cm screws inside of the solar panel housing.
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Gently twist and pull the black magnetic axle until it comes off. Hold the wind cups still in order to remove the axle easily.
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Carefully slide apart the two parts of the solar panel housing.
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Gently pull up on the two hooks holding down the solar panel.
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Gently pull down on the solar panel.
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Carefully pull the solar panel out.
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Set the panel in the apparatus like so.
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Carefully lift the circuit board that the solar panel is attached to out of its apparatus.
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Stretch out the panel and the board so you have more room to work.
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Clip the first wire connecting the old solar panel.
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Strip the insulation off the wires to reveal the copper beneath.
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Using a soldering iron, melt the solder to attach the wires to the panel.
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Be sure to completely cover the ends of the wire with the solder.
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Solder dripping off the iron can cause sever burns and start fires on clothing and tables.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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CSU Fullerton, Team 1-4, Bruce Fall 2016 crwdns2935289:0CSU Fullerton, Team 1-4, Bruce Fall 2016crwdne2935289:0
CSUF-BRUCE-F16S1G4
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Replacing the panel may not be enough. Even after the company replaced mine with a new double-paneled head, its temp still reads much higher than actual, because the case-cooling fan’s motor that the panel drives won’t start up. Once running it’s okay, although it probably doesn’t cool the case enough even then. But as the sun comes up the panel puts out not enough to get the motor rolling, then the motor can’t overcome static resistance even as the sun goes through the day. If you bump the device a little while the panel is solar exposed, the momentum energy will get it turning (a few years ago I added a brief video to YouTube demonstrating that). But there’s no practical way to bump the case each day while the device is mounted in place.
I even replaced the motor with a well-rated one, but it still doesn’t start easily enough to turn the fan and give accurate temperature readings. In winter it’s relatively accurate, but in summer when keeping the inner case from overheating in direct sun is critical, the motor fails to overcome start resistance and the readout can get up to 10 degrees higher than the accepted actual temp.
The design of this cooling system is bad. I too upgraded to the “Pro” unit that has two solar cells. The cells developed a “crust” after two summers in the sun, as if the factory failed to remove the protective film from the cells during assembly. I was unable to remove this “crust”.
It would be helpful, if you could provide details of the replacement cell you used. I also replaced the motor with a Mabuchi, but the noise continues, when the unit is in place with the shaft facing downward.
what is the part number and where can i buy a panel at..?
