Hi guys. First time posting so sorry if I'm stupid and didn't attatch the image properly.

I took apart my controller cause r1 wouldn't spring back and discovered the pad fell through the slot of the membrane. (right one in the image, left is intact) I tried putting it back up but it just falls through again when pressed. I've never dealt with membrane switches before so please tell me if i'm missing somthing.

I found a post here on the forum where someone else had the same sholder button problem and a recommendation given was to order new membrane and replace it. But op hadn't opened it yet and didn't return with updates so i thought i should ask if i can fix it on the spot first before ordering, just to save myself the shipping time.

Thanks in advace

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 10, 2026 at 3:57 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 10, 2026 at 3:57 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 10, 2026 at 3:57 GMT-7

I have a SmartTag2 that drains the battery extremely quickly.
I even took a battery from a brand new and sealed SmartTag2 and installed it in this device, but after about 3 days it reported Low Battery.

I then tested the same battery in another working SmartTag2, and it worked normally without any issues.

I also tested 3 different new CR2032 batteries from different brands, and the same problem occurs with all of them.

I was listening to music normal and it started lowering the volume by itself. I tried to get the volume higher a few times (pressing the up volume button or using the screen) but it kept going all the way down.

So i turned it off and cleaned it a little bit just in case something was bothering the button from the outside, or if the system was stuck. Then when I opened it and it still thought that the down button was pressed so it sent me to fast boot. Somehow I managed to boot it properly and now it seems to be okay, but i think it will happen again.

Is it a hardware or a software error? if there’s nothing I can do about it I might need to buy a new one.

⟐ Commented 5월 10, 2026 at 3:47 GMT-7

• Full shutdown of the computer doesn't make it stop, nor does ejecting the disc.
• The other drive doesn't have this problem. It shuts off when the computer is in sleep mode or shut down. The drives are the exact same make.
• Nothing appears to be accessing the drive (nothing could be accessing it if the computer is shut down fully and disconnected from the internet, as far as I'm aware).
• I have changed the USB port, and it doesn't seem to matter which port it's plugged into. The power remains on regardless. This includes extra ports, as I have a USB plug extender with an extra four USB plugs. I have swapped the main plug for this as well as not plugging the WD into it at all. I've tried just about every USB port on the computer at this point.

Looking this up online I have found some discussion about entering the BIOS and changing settings, but I don't understand why it would only effect only one WD, and not both, especially when the USB port it's plugged into doesn't seem to fix the problem. I also don't have power running into any other USB devices (art tablet, for example) when the computer is shut down, regardless of port.

⟐ Commented 5월 10, 2026 at 3:44 GMT-7

Can't believe I bought a self repairable phone from a manufacturer who doesn't supply spares to the public or their repair partners. I would never touch a Nokia/ HMD again!

⟐ Commented 5월 10, 2026 at 3:21 GMT-7

This laptop worked flawlessly up till Feb 2021, when the battery died —seven years, kudos for the quality control! I had iFixit's for a good reputation brand and decided to buy a replacement battery to extend my machine's life. Well, the new battery worked as expected, but died suddenly on Sep 2023, just 2 ½ years after being installed.

Since I still had use for this laptop, I decided to buy another replacement from iFixit on Oct 2023. This battery lasted exactly the same as the first one: it died on me last month (Apr 2026).

So, I'm wondering if it's just me or these items last less than half —almost a third— as an original Apple battery. If I had known, I would have taken the laptop to the original service center for repair. Anyone from iFixit here to answer my question? Because I'm about to buy from another provider, since my two purchases didn't live up to expectations.

⟐ Commented 5월 10, 2026 at 3:12 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 5월 10, 2026 at 3:05 GMT-7

I have already tried the following software troubleshooting steps with no success:

- Rolling back the software to a version from 3 months ago.

- Performing a full firmware flash (including the CP/modem file).

- Resetting network settings and APNs.

- Testing with different SIM cards.

Since the software rollback and full flashing didn't restore the signal, I suspect a potential hardware conflict or failure triggered by the update. Has anyone else encountered this specific issue with the S23 Ultra? Could this be related to the sub-board/charging board or a specific antenna module? Any advice on which hardware component to test or replace first would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Answered 5월 10, 2026 at 2:06 GMT-7

⟐ Edited by author 5월 10, 2026 at 1:58 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 5월 10, 2026 at 0:55 GMT-7

Now i did some research and there might be an issue with the board itself.

But I did try to hard reset whereby if you hold the power button as you plug the tv in, it would go into recovery mode but for some reason it wont go into recovery mode at all even though the screen did turn onr

⟐ Commented 5월 10, 2026 at 0:42 GMT-7