Van won't start but lights work
Lights come on but all I hear is a click what can it be?
I've had this problem before. The problem turned out to be a bad ground between the engine block and negaive on the baytery. A cheap test. Connect one side of a set of jumper cables between the metal on the engne and the battery negative. If it starts that's your problem.
A fix trace and replace the bad connection. Cheap reoair jump beteen the battery negative and the engine block.
I've use the cheap fix and gotten YEARS of good service from the fix. YMMV
More than likely its a dead battery. Dead batteries have enough juice to power the lights, but not enough power to turn the engine over. The clicking noise is the relay switch on the starter moving the gear into position to turn the engine over. It cant because the battery is weak.
Try to get a jump start to confirm the dead battery.
sherrylynn "I hear is a click" would make me consider that you are having issues with the starter etc. If your light is on and stays on while (same brightness) you try to start your vehicle means that your starter is not even drawing any power from the battery. You could try and "hotwire" your starter. For more information we would need your exact model year and engine size.
I would add a comment. If the bad connection is a problem you MAY have a much less bad connection between your aluminum metal on your radiator and the battery negative. Can be tested with the vehicle off but ignition on and off or with the vehicle running.
Take a multi meter and measure the voltage between the negative batter (actual physical negative post) and any (aluminum) metal point of the radiator grid if you see small mili-voltes then you have a potential galvanic corrosion. Lots of fancy ways to fix but the simplest is to take a 16 or 18 gauge wire (I prefer stranded) between the aluminum metal on the radiator and the negative battery (terminal, post or cable just so the connection is close to the battery post).
What you gain is not having to replace the radiator periodically for small leaks and big bucks.
In our fleet we typically ONLY perform this fix when we replace have a leaking radiator. As a precaution we do perform the test in our annual PMI
A last caution some dealerships will as a matter of policy remove these fixes and charge you for the work.
I am having the same issue.
From My experience and knowledge of DC Electrical systems I believe it could be…
The ground wire (negative). The connection between the ground or (-)/the black terminal/negative lead (post)on the battery and the end of the wire where it connects to the lower part of the engine on the right side.
The Neutral Safety Switch.
The ignition (we here you put the key) is bad.
The stock anti-starting portion of the stock security system. Or a add on Security system.
A bad fuse
The Starter Relay needs to be checked. Because it might be in need of replacement.
A connection somewhere on the Starter or between the Battery and the Starter.
Check to make sure It is all the way in Park (P) or Neutral (N).
Check the fuses, Starter Rpelay and connections and the ground wire.
Use a starting jump cable between the negatve post of the battery and the engine block if it starts yiu have a bad connection between negative batter and engine block. you can fix the connection or tak a HD cable between the negative post (or cabing) and the enginblock. We hav an )$ caravn the has been runnng well with this patch for near 10 years