With the engine switched off, disconnect the -ve battery cable from the -ve battery post and connect a DMM (digital multimeter) setup to measure DC Amps (or mA) in series between the -ve battery cable and the -ve battery post.
The normal quiescent current flow in most vehicles is 50-80mA.
If you measure more than this amount of current, you need to start removing all the fuses, ''one by one'' and check if the current flow shown by the DMM drops back to the normal amount after each fuse has been removed.
''If it doesn't fall back to normal'' replace the fuse and then move onto the next fuse. This way you won't confuse which fuse belongs where.
''If it falls back to normal'' then check what circuit is being supplied by the fuse that has been removed as per the fuse layout table usually found in the lid of the fuse block. Once you know this then you'll know which function or circuit is either still on or is not working properly.
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Also check that the battery is being correctly charged as it may be failing or not being charged correctly.
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With the engine running, connect a DMM across the battery terminals and check that the voltage is 13.8V-14.5V DC.
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If it is <13.8V it is not being charged correctly and this may lead to it failing prematurely. The same if it is >14.5V as it is being overcharged and this could damage the battery.
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''Be safety aware when doing this as the engine is running!''
With the engine switched off, disconnect the -ve battery cable from the -ve battery post and connect a DMM (digital multimeter) setup to measure DC Amps (or mA) in series between the -ve battery cable and the -ve battery post.
The normal quiescent current flow in most vehicles is 50-80mA.
If you measure more than this amount of current, you need to start removing all the fuses, ''one by one'' and check if the current flow shown by the DMM drops back to the normal amount after each fuse has been removed.
''If it doesn't fall back to normal'' replace the fuse and then move onto the next fuse. This way you won't confuse which fuse belongs where.
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''If it falls back to normal'' then check what circuit is being supplied by the fuse that has been removed as per the fuse layout table usually found in the lid of the fuse block. Once you know this then you'll you'll know which function or circuit is either still on or is not working properly.
+
''If it falls back to normal'' then check what circuit is being supplied by the fuse that has been removed as per the fuse layout table usually found in the lid of the fuse block. Once you know this then you'll know which function or circuit is either still on or is not working properly.
Hi @cwallot
With the engine switched off, disconnect the -ve battery cable from the -ve battery post and connect a DMM (digital multimeter) setup to measure DC Amps (or mA) in series between the -ve battery cable and the -ve battery post.
The normal quiescent current flow in most vehicles is 50-80mA.
If you measure more than this amount of current, you need to start removing all the fuses, ''one by one'' and check if the current flow shown by the DMM drops back to the normal amount after each fuse has been removed.
''If it doesn't fall back to normal'' replace the fuse and then move onto the next fuse. This way you won't confuse which fuse belongs where.
''If it falls back to normal'' then check what circuit is being supplied by the fuse that has been removed as per the fuse layout table usually found in the lid of the fuse block. Once you know this then you'll you'll know which function or circuit is either still on or is not working properly.