Check that the electrolytic capacitors on the power board are all OK and not bulging or leaking.
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Check that the electrolytic capacitors on the power board are all OK and not bulging (domed) or leaking.
A faulty capacitor can introduce unwanted noise into a circuit.
If you find any, their specifications are on the can itself. When searching for replacements you need to know their capacitance value (usually in micro Farads - either MFD or µF) and their working voltage rating (V or VW). Lead (legs?) spacing may be an issue but if the leads are long enough usually not.
Search either Digikey.com or mouser.com for any hard to find ones that you can't find easily using a general Google search. For example when searching for a [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=100%C2%B5F+63V+electrolytic+radial+capacitor+|100µF 63V electrolytic radial capacitor]
If for whatever reason you find one with the correct capacitance value but not the correct voltage value, get one with the ''same capacitance value and a higher voltage rating,'' ''never a lower voltage rating.''
Electrolytic capacitors are polarity dependent so take note (or pictures) of their orientation the way they're soldered on the board. The -ve leg of the capacitor is indicated by a broken stripe down the side of the capacitor. Conversely, the +ve leg of the capacitor is marked on the board.
If you reverse it when soldering in a new one it will blow at some time very soon after the power is connected.
Apologies if you know all this already.
Here's the ifixit [[Topic:Sonos Play 5]] repair guide that will help to gain access to the board
Check that the electrolytic capacitors on the power board are all OK and not bulging or leaking.
A faulty capacitor can introduce unwanted noise into a circuit.
If you find any, their specifications are on the can itself. When searching for replacements you need to know their capacitance value (usually in micro Farads - either MFD or µF) and their working voltage rating (V or VW). Lead (legs?) spacing may be an issue but if the leads are long enough usually not.
-
Search either Digikey.com or mouser.com for any hard to find ones that you can't find easily using a general Google search. For example when searching for a [https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=100%C2%B5F+63V+electrolytic+radial+capacitor+|100µF 63V electrolytic radial capacitor]
+
Search either Digikey.com or mouser.com for any hard to find ones that you can't find easily using a general Google search. For example when searching for a [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=100%C2%B5F+63V+electrolytic+radial+capacitor+|100µF 63V electrolytic radial capacitor]
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If you find one with the correct capacitance value but not the voltage value, get one with the ''same capacitance value and a higher voltage rating,'' ''never a lower voltage rating.''
+
If for whatever reason you find one with the correct capacitance value but not the correct voltage value, get one with the ''same capacitance value and a higher voltage rating,'' ''never a lower voltage rating.''
Electrolytic capacitors are polarity dependent so take note (or pictures) of their orientation the way they're soldered on the board. The -ve leg of the capacitor is indicated by a broken stripe down the side of the capacitor. Conversely, the +ve leg of the capacitor is marked on the board.
If you reverse it when soldering in a new one it will blow at some time very soon after the power is connected.
Apologies if you know all this already.
Here's the ifixit [[Topic:Sonos Play 5]] repair guide that will help to gain access to the board
Hi @martinabbo80434
Check that the electrolytic capacitors on the power board are all OK and not bulging or leaking.
A faulty capacitor can introduce unwanted noise into a circuit.
If you find any, their specifications are on the can itself. When searching for replacements you need to know their capacitance value (usually in micro Farads - either MFD or µF) and their working voltage rating (V or VW). Lead (legs?) spacing may be an issue but if the leads are long enough usually not.
Search either Digikey.com or mouser.com for any hard to find ones that you can't find easily using a general Google search. For example when searching for a [https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=100%C2%B5F+63V+electrolytic+radial+capacitor+|100µF 63V electrolytic radial capacitor]
If you find one with the correct capacitance value but not the voltage value, get one with the ''same capacitance value and a higher voltage rating,'' ''never a lower voltage rating.''
Electrolytic capacitors are polarity dependent so take note (or pictures) of their orientation the way they're soldered on the board. The -ve leg of the capacitor is indicated by a broken stripe down the side of the capacitor. Conversely, the +ve leg of the capacitor is marked on the board.
If you reverse it when soldering in a new one it will blow at some time very soon after the power is connected.
Apologies if you know all this already.
Here's the ifixit [[Topic:Sonos Play 5]] repair guide that will help to gain access to the board