For the fan to run correctly it needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
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As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. not 4 wire, therefore no inbuilt fan temp sensor and speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In refrigerators the cooling (evaporator) fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the door is closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit and needs to be lowered again. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
If there is a lid switch, it could be that if it is faulty or perhaps if the temp sensor is faulty, then that may be the reason the fan stops. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly it needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In refrigerators the cooling (evaporator) fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the door is closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit and needs to be lowered again. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
-
If there is a lid switch, it could be that if it is faulty (or perhaps if the temp sensor is faulty) then that may be the reason the fan stops. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
+
If there is a lid switch, it could be that if it is faulty or perhaps if the temp sensor is faulty, then that may be the reason the fan stops. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly it needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
-
Is there door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the door is closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit and needs to be lowered again. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
+
Is there door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In refrigerators the cooling (evaporator) fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the door is closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit and needs to be lowered again. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
If there is a lid switch, it could be that if it is faulty (or perhaps if the temp sensor is faulty) then that may be the reason the fan stops. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
+
For the fan to run correctly it needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the door is closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit and needs to be lowered again. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
If there is a lid switch, it could be that if it is faulty (or perhaps if the temp sensor is faulty) then that may be the reason the fan stops. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
-
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
+
Is there door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the door is closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit and needs to be lowered again. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
-
If so it could be that either one is faulty. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
+
If there is a lid switch, it could be that if it is faulty (or perhaps if the temp sensor is faulty) then that may be the reason the fan stops. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
-
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, only a power supply, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
If so it could be that either one is faulty. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
-
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no fan temp sensor or speed sensor, only a power supply, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no inbuilt fan temp sensor or speed sensor, only a power supply, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
If so it could be that either one is faulty. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
-
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no fan temp sensor or speed sensor, only a power supply, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
If so it could be that either one is faulty. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
-
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage.
+
Unfortunately there's not much information online regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams but it may be worthwhile knowing whether it is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage that is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
+
+
If so it could be that either one is faulty. I'm assuming that the ice maker doesn't get to the correct operating temperature?
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
-
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
As it is only a 2 wire fan i.e. no fan temp sensor or speed sensor, use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
-
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total or loss of voltage is the problem.
+
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total lack of voltage.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
-
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. screwhead or a bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total or loss of voltage is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
-
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
+
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V DC when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total or loss of voltage is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.
Hi @theflamethrower
For the fan to run correctly is needs 12V DC power being supplied by the control board.
Use a DMM (digital multimeter) and check that when the fan first starts that there's 12V when measuring between the fan's red wire and either the fan's black wire or an earth point i.e. bright, shiny, non painted, clean metal point on the chassis. Then measure what voltage is there when the fan stops.
Unfortunately there's not much information regarding service manuals or wiring diagrams available online but maybe worthwhile knowing whether the problem is insufficient voltage or a total or loss of voltage is the problem.
Is there a temp sensor and/or a door switch (lid switch?) for the ice maker at all? In normal refrigerators the cooling fan is turned off when the correct temp is reached or the door is opened and only starts again when the doors are closed and if the temp is above the preset upper limit. So perhaps it may be the same for the ice maker.