Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
-
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm them it may be OK.
+
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm then it may be OK.
How long is the refrigerator off for, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly? The breaker tripping and the refrigerator not getting cold enough may be related
Check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not. This is evident as the compressor will run less often overnight as the ambient temp is cooler and also there's less normal user activity so the doors aren't opened as often so less cold air which needs to be replaced will be lost.
Also have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
-
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
+
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm them it may be OK.
How long is the refrigerator off for, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly? The breaker tripping and the refrigerator not getting cold enough may be related
Check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not. This is evident as the compressor will run less often overnight as the ambient temp is cooler and also there's less normal user activity so the doors aren't opened as often so less cold air which needs to be replaced will be lost.
Also have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
-
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly? The breaker tripping and the refrigerator not getting cold enough may be related
+
How long is the refrigerator off for, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly? The breaker tripping and the refrigerator not getting cold enough may be related
Check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not. This is evident as the compressor will run less often overnight as the ambient temp is cooler and also there's less normal user activity so the doors aren't opened as often so less cold air which needs to be replaced will be lost.
Also have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
-
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly?
+
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly? The breaker tripping and the refrigerator not getting cold enough may be related
-
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
-
-
Perhaps also check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
+
Check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not. This is evident as the compressor will run less often overnight as the ambient temp is cooler and also there's less normal user activity so the doors aren't opened as often so less cold air which needs to be replaced will be lost.
+
Also have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly?
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Perhaps also check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
-
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not.
+
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not. This is evident as the compressor will run less often overnight as the ambient temp is cooler and also there's less normal user activity so the doors aren't opened as often so less cold air which needs to be replaced will be lost.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly?
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Perhaps also check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
-
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not.
+
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly?
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Perhaps also check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
-
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a though on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
+
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not.
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly?
-
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door is straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
+
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Perhaps also check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a though on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not.
Hi @rongham
Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?
Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.
If it isn't getting hot but is just warm this may be normal.
How long is the refrigerator off, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly?
Have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door is straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.
Perhaps also check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.
When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.
If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a though on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.
Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not.
Just some thoughts.