Part 1: (they dont allow enough characters for threads like these!)
Ours will do this too. I will 1st try to make sure the lint trap is clean and pushed in tight. I find that if the "clean lint trap" light is flashing, (I can't remember exactly what it says and I'm too lazy to go check. Lol) but if it's flashing the clothes won't dry.
It will spin, go through all the motions, then stop, but the clothes are still damp. There probably is a safety in there to not turn on the element when the lint is built up, or not in tight, to prevent a fire.
Another thing I do is do a really deep clean of the moisture sensor (those metal strips) on the front of the lint trap. I use a "magic eraser" or a bit of fine sand paper, and give the moisture sensor a bit of a scrub to get any grime or film that had built up on it from the drier sheets, fabric softener or hard water deposits etc.
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=== Update (06/01/24) ===
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Part 2:
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And because we live near the beach, have a dog and my oldest son is a mechanic, and my middle son works as a rod-buster our drier is always full of extra dirt, fur etc, and has work clothes covered in mud, grease and rebar rust in it I sometimes need to do a really deep clean out of the trap.
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I unplug the drier and completely remove & disassemble the lint trap by unscrewing the two deep set Phillips screws in the front of the lint trap. Plug any sensitive ears because there will be some swearing while dealing with these awkward screws! (Especially when putting them back in! Lol)
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You then can then pull out the trap and disconnect the wires to the sensor strip, (take photos as you go for re-assemby) Make sure they don't fall back into the drier. You can tape them to one side if there is a risk of them going back in. Then you can really scrub l the dirt out of the lint trap and it's housing. I used a pipe-cleaner type round bristle brush for cleaning out metal reusable straws and bottle necks to get some of the (PITA) holes clean.
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For some reason the plastic casing on my lint trap has warped a bit over the years. It leaves a gap. So I took a heat gun and tried to soften up the plastic a bit to reshape it, but it didn't really go completely back to where it was before. So I often wonder if the lint is actually all getting trapped on the screen when it doesn't seal up tightly.
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Maybe that is why people have said there has been fire hazards/lint built up in the hose? But I'm not sure if that is the same drier as mine, because my lint trap is in in the front of the drier. When you open the door, its at the bottom. (Knee height) It's not at the top so I'm not sure if they are talking about this same drier model as the one in this thread. (Mine is the same as the one in the diagram someone had posted.)
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Hope this helps someone. I love beating Planned Obsolescence!
Part 1: (they dont allow enough characters for threads like these!)
Ours will do this too. I will 1st try to make sure the lint trap is clean and pushed in tight. I find that if the "clean lint trap" light is flashing, (I can't remember exactly what it says and I'm too lazy to go check. Lol) but if it's flashing the clothes won't dry.
It will spin, go through all the motions, then stop, but the clothes are still damp. There probably is a safety in there to not turn on the element when the lint is built up, or not in tight, to prevent a fire.
Another thing I do is do a really deep clean of the moisture sensor (those metal strips) on the front of the lint trap. I use a "magic eraser" or a bit of fine sand paper, and give the moisture sensor a bit of a scrub to get any grime or film that had built up on it from the drier sheets, fabric softener or hard water deposits etc.