Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes). (see image below)
+
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes see image below)
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. cheaper (3 x AA) rather than having a more expensive higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
Also ensure that the 4.5V DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness. The circuit will only use as much current to work as it needs so it is not a problem if the external supply has a higher output current. It would be a problem if the supply voltage was higher than specified though
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
+
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes). (see image below)
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. cheaper (3 x AA) rather than having a more expensive higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
Also ensure that the 4.5V DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness. The circuit will only use as much current to work as it needs so it is not a problem if the external supply has a higher output current. It would be a problem if the supply voltage was higher than specified though
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. cheaper (3 x AA) rather than having a more expensive higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
-
Also ensure that the 4.5V DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness
+
Also ensure that the 4.5V DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness. The circuit will only use as much current to work as it needs so it is not a problem if the external supply has a higher output current. It would be a problem if the supply voltage was higher than specified though
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. cheaper (3 x AA) rather than having a more expensive higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
-
Also ensure that the 4.5DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness
+
Also ensure that the 4.5V DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. cheaper (3 x AA) rather than having a more expensive higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
+
Also ensure that the 4.5DC adapter has an output current rating of 3A-5A. This is based on that the capacity of standard AA batteries is approx. 2.7A-3.0A so the adapter would have to be the same to make sure that the lights achieved their full designed brightness
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
-
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having a higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
+
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. cheaper (3 x AA) rather than having a more expensive higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
-
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more e.g. 6 x AA (9V) due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
+
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having a higher voltage battery e.g. 6LR61 9V, due to the higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
-
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
+
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery cell position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
+
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction between the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more e.g. 6 x AA (9V) due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
-
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
+
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more e.g. 6 x AA (9V) due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply in the control box e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
+
''If you are connecting directly to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse direction along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection, (LEDs are diodes).
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
-
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
+
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking of the lights not detectable by the human eye
-
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
+
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
+
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are alternately connected in reverse along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
-
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing internal battery holder) connections).
+
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing battery holder connections between each battery position).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
-
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
+
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows (or pink and green arrows if placement as per red and black doesn't work. The connections are dependent on the existing internal battery holder) connections).
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
+
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' that were connected to the control box then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
-
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once. The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
+
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once.
+
+
The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once. The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
[image|3178357]
(click on image)
-
-
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
-
-
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
-
-
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
-
-
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
-
-
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
-
-
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
-
-
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
-
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once. The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
+
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once. The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the perceived persistence of the light being emitted i.e. high frequency blinking not detectable by the human eye
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
[image|3178357]
(click on image)
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
+
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion along the two wires so only half the lights will work depending on the polarity of the supply connection.
+
+
The controller constantly reverses the polarity of the power supply to the lights so that only half the lights, then the other half, are lit at any one time. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements if all were on at once. The lights all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
[image|3178357]
(click on image)
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' directly to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
[image|3178357]
(click on image)
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V DC adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
[image|3178357]
(click on image)
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an an external power supply) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an external power supply e.g. DC power port) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
[image|3178357]
(click on image)
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an an external power supply) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
-
[image|3178355] (click on image)
+
[image|3178357]
+
+
(click on image)
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the light control box to the appropriate battery connector terminals (assuming there's no provision for an external power supply and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the appropriate battery connector terminals in the light's control box (assuming there's no provision to connect an an external power supply) and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
If you are connecting to the two LED light wires then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
+
''If you are connecting to the two LED light wires'' then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
-
If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box and it is happening, then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
+
If there's no provision to plug in/connect an external power supply, then if the battery holder looks like the one in the image below ( ignore the wires) connect the 4.5V DC adapter wires as shown by the arrows to the battery terminals as shown by the red and black arrows.
+
+
[image|3178355] (click on image)
+
+
''If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box'' a''nd it is still happening,'' then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the light control box and ''not'' the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the light control box to the appropriate battery connector terminals (assuming there's no provision for an external power supply and ''not'' to the two wires connected to the LED lights?
-
If you are then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way prolongs the life of the AA batteries rather than having to power all of the LEDs at the same time. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
+
If you are connecting to the two LED light wires then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way can mean that less batteries are required i.e. 3 x AA rather than having more due to higher voltage/current requirements. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
-
If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box at it is happening, then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
+
If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box and it is happening, then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
Just verifying that you're connecting the 4.5V adapter to the light control box and ''not'' the two wires connected to the LED lights?
+
+
If you are then most probably what is happening is that the lights are connected in alternate fashion and the controller constantly reverses the power so that only half the lights are lit at one time then the other half. Doing it this way prolongs the life of the AA batteries rather than having to power all of the LEDs at the same time. They all appear to stay on due to the fast switching time and the persistence of the light being emitted
+
+
If you have connected the 4.5V DC adapter to the control box at it is happening, then do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
-
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but not if there's too much current available if the voltage value is correct.
+
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but if the voltage value is correct, then it's not a problem if there's too much current available from the supply.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
-
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem but not if there's too much current available if the voltage is correct that is.
+
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage applied is a problem but not if there's too much current available if the voltage value is correct.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
-
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem but not if there's too much current if the voltage is correct that is.
+
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem but not if there's too much current available if the voltage is correct that is.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
-
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The total voltage of the batteries adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
+
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage of each of the batteries adds up to make the total voltage, but not the current capacity.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem but not if there's too much current if the voltage is correct that is.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
-
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then, for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
+
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time, then for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The total voltage of the batteries adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem but not if there's too much current if the voltage is correct that is.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then, for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The total voltage of the batteries adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
-
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem not too much current if the voltage is correct.
+
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem but not if there's too much current if the voltage is correct that is.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then, for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The total voltage of the batteries adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
+
If you have a 4.5V/3-5A adapter then try it. The lights will only use as much current as they need and not more. Having too much voltage is a problem not too much current if the voltage is correct.
+
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then, for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
-
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage total adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
+
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The total voltage of the batteries adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then, for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
-
Also what is the Ampere output of the DC adapter.
+
Also what is the DC Ampere output rating of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage total adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
-
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then the polarity is reversing.
+
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then, for whatever reason, the polarity is reversing.
Also what is the Ampere output of the DC adapter.
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage total adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V. Apologies if you know how to use a DMM.
+
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then the polarity is reversing.
-
Also what is the current output of the DC adapter.
+
Also what is the Ampere output of the DC adapter.
-
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity. The voltage adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
+
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity as for one battery. The voltage total adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
+
+
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM and about series/parallel power connections
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V. Apologies if you know how to use a DMM.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then the polarity is reversing.
+
+
Also what is the current output of the DC adapter.
+
+
The standard capacity of most AA batteries is 2.7A-3.0A. (for 3 batteries in series connection it will still be the same total capacity. The voltage adds up but not the current.) If the adapter's current output is less e.g.1A then perhaps this may be a reason.
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
+
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V. Apologies if you know how to use a DMM.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then the polarity is reversing.
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter for the light control box and connect the meter's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
+
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter from the light control box and connect the DMM's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then the polarity is reversing.
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter for the light control box and connect the meter's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering either a steady 4.5V or -4.5V depending on which meter lead is on which output wire from the adapter.
+
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter for the light control box and connect the meter's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter i.e. if the output wires are red and black then connect red test lead to red wire and black test lead to black wire and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering a steady 4.5V.
+
+
If the meter indicates -4.5V at any time then the polarity is reversing.
Hi @steve36485
Do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?
If so, disconnect the 4.5V DC adapter for the light control box and connect the meter's (set to 20V DC scale) red and black test probes to the two output wires of the adapter and check that the polarity stays constant i.e meter registering either a steady 4.5V or -4.5V depending on which meter lead is on which output wire from the adapter.