Don't know the dryer but it sounds as though there may be a problem with either the motor start capacitor or perhaps the motor start winding.
If possible try to manually operate the door switch and then with the door open, start the dryer.
If it tries to turn but can't, manually rotate the drum and check if then it continues to rotate by itself. If it does then it is either the start winding or the capacitor.
''Be careful that you don't get caught by the drum suddenly turning by itself.''
Here's a link to a [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/26c94ryhtc-000432/ge-gft14essl0ww-dryer-parts|parts supplier] that may help, once you work out how to open the dryer ;-)
The capacitor is Item #48 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' manufacturer's part # WE01X26354
The motor is Item #34 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' [link|https://www.ebay.com/itm/334563415944|WE17X26577] (supplier example only to show motor specification plate where you can see how the capacitor is attached between the red and yellow wires connected to the motor terminals - hover the mouse cursor over the image to enlarge)
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You could use an Ohmmeter to do a ''rough check'' if the capacitor is OK, by disconnecting the harness wiring from the capacitor and then discharging it by shorting out its terminals using a large set of pliers with insulated grips (there may be a big spark if it is OK, so watch your eyes) and then connecting the Ohmmeter to the capacitor to see if it registers a reading, then reversing the Ohmmeter leads and testing again to see if it registers a reading again. Basically the Ohmmeter will be charging and discharging the capacitor. If there's no indication on the meter at all then it is faulty.
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You could use an Ohmmeter to do a ''rough check'' if the capacitor is OK, by first disconnecting the power to the dryer and then disconnecting the harness wiring from the capacitor and then discharging it by shorting out its terminals using a large set of pliers with insulated grips (there may be a big spark if it is OK, so watch your eyes) and then connecting the Ohmmeter to the capacitor to see if it registers a reading, then reversing the Ohmmeter leads and testing again to see if it registers a reading again. Basically the Ohmmeter will be charging and discharging the capacitor. If there's no indication on the meter at all then it is faulty.
Unfortunately you can't test and prove if the motor start winding is OK with an Ohmmeter, as the start and run windings are connected in parallel by an internal centrifugal switch. You would need an AC clamp meter connected to the motor's AC input to measure the current to check how much current was flowing when the motor is first turned on.
Once you determine what is wrong and if a part needs replacing, search online using the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best.
Don't know the dryer but it sounds as though there may be a problem with either the start capacitor or perhaps the start winding in the motor.
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Don't know the dryer but it sounds as though there may be a problem with either the motor start capacitor or perhaps the motor start winding.
If possible try to manually operate the door switch and then with the door open, start the dryer.
If it tries to turn but can't, manually rotate the drum and check if then it continues to rotate by itself. If it does then it is either the start winding or the capacitor.
''Be careful that you don't get caught by the drum suddenly turning by itself.''
Here's a link to a [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/26c94ryhtc-000432/ge-gft14essl0ww-dryer-parts|parts supplier] that may help, once you work out how to open the dryer ;-)
The capacitor is Item #48 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' manufacturer's part # WE01X26354
The motor is Item #34 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' [link|https://www.ebay.com/itm/334563415944|WE17X26577] (supplier example only to show motor specification plate where you can see how the capacitor is attached between the red and yellow wires connected to the motor terminals - hover the mouse cursor over the image to enlarge)
You could use an Ohmmeter to do a ''rough check'' if the capacitor is OK, by disconnecting the harness wiring from the capacitor and then discharging it by shorting out its terminals using a large set of pliers with insulated grips (there may be a big spark if it is OK, so watch your eyes) and then connecting the Ohmmeter to the capacitor to see if it registers a reading, then reversing the Ohmmeter leads and testing again to see if it registers a reading again. Basically the Ohmmeter will be charging and discharging the capacitor. If there's no indication on the meter at all then it is faulty.
Unfortunately you can't test and prove if the motor start winding is OK with an Ohmmeter, as the start and run windings are connected in parallel by an internal centrifugal switch. You would need an AC clamp meter connected to the motor's AC input to measure the current to check how much current was flowing when the motor is first turned on.
Once you determine what is wrong and if a part needs replacing, search online using the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best.
Don't know the dryer but it sounds as though there's a problem with either the start capacitor or perhaps the start winding in the motor.
+
Don't know the dryer but it sounds as though there may be a problem with either the start capacitor or perhaps the start winding in the motor.
If possible try to manually operate the door switch and then with the door open, start the dryer.
If it tries to turn but can't, manually rotate the drum and check if then it continues to rotate by itself. If it does then it is either the start winding or the capacitor.
''Be careful that you don't get caught by the drum suddenly turning by itself.''
-
Here's a link to a [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/26c94ryhtc-000432/ge-gft14essl0ww-dryer-parts|parts supplier] that may help, once you work out how to open the dryer ;-)
+
Here's a link to a [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/26c94ryhtc-000432/ge-gft14essl0ww-dryer-parts|parts supplier] that may help, once you work out how to open the dryer ;-)
The capacitor is Item #48 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' manufacturer's part # WE01X26354
-
The motor is Item #34 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' [https://www.ebay.com/itm/334563415944|WE17X26577] (supplier example only to show motor specification plate where you can see how the capacitor is attached between the red and yellow wires connected to the motor terminals - hover the mouse cursor over the image to enlarge)
+
The motor is Item #34 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' [link|https://www.ebay.com/itm/334563415944|WE17X26577] (supplier example only to show motor specification plate where you can see how the capacitor is attached between the red and yellow wires connected to the motor terminals - hover the mouse cursor over the image to enlarge)
You could use an Ohmmeter to do a ''rough check'' if the capacitor is OK, by disconnecting the harness wiring from the capacitor and then discharging it by shorting out its terminals using a large set of pliers with insulated grips (there may be a big spark if it is OK, so watch your eyes) and then connecting the Ohmmeter to the capacitor to see if it registers a reading, then reversing the Ohmmeter leads and testing again to see if it registers a reading again. Basically the Ohmmeter will be charging and discharging the capacitor. If there's no indication on the meter at all then it is faulty.
Unfortunately you can't test and prove if the motor start winding is OK with an Ohmmeter, as the start and run windings are connected in parallel by an internal centrifugal switch. You would need an AC clamp meter connected to the motor's AC input to measure the current to check how much current was flowing when the motor is first turned on.
Once you determine what is wrong and if a part needs replacing, search online using the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best.
Hi @unloopme
Don't know the dryer but it sounds as though there's a problem with either the start capacitor or perhaps the start winding in the motor.
If possible try to manually operate the door switch and then with the door open, start the dryer.
If it tries to turn but can't, manually rotate the drum and check if then it continues to rotate by itself. If it does then it is either the start winding or the capacitor.
''Be careful that you don't get caught by the drum suddenly turning by itself.''
Here's a link to a [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/26c94ryhtc-000432/ge-gft14essl0ww-dryer-parts|parts supplier] that may help, once you work out how to open the dryer ;-)
The capacitor is Item #48 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' manufacturer's part # WE01X26354
The motor is Item #34 in the ''Blower, motor & condenser assembly diagram -'' [https://www.ebay.com/itm/334563415944|WE17X26577] (supplier example only to show motor specification plate where you can see how the capacitor is attached between the red and yellow wires connected to the motor terminals - hover the mouse cursor over the image to enlarge)
You could use an Ohmmeter to do a ''rough check'' if the capacitor is OK, by disconnecting the harness wiring from the capacitor and then discharging it by shorting out its terminals using a large set of pliers with insulated grips (there may be a big spark if it is OK, so watch your eyes) and then connecting the Ohmmeter to the capacitor to see if it registers a reading, then reversing the Ohmmeter leads and testing again to see if it registers a reading again. Basically the Ohmmeter will be charging and discharging the capacitor. If there's no indication on the meter at all then it is faulty.
Unfortunately you can't test and prove if the motor start winding is OK with an Ohmmeter, as the start and run windings are connected in parallel by an internal centrifugal switch. You would need an AC clamp meter connected to the motor's AC input to measure the current to check how much current was flowing when the motor is first turned on.
Once you determine what is wrong and if a part needs replacing, search online using the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best.