[http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a generic tutorial on how to replace a CCFL bulb. The gist of the procedure is similar for most LCD screens. I suggest you wear '''non powdered''' rubber gloves when you do this. The oils on your skin can/will leave hot spots on the bulb and discolor what ever else it gets on. Take care when removing the silver tape holding the "tray" the CCFL bulb sits in. You will need to use it again for the install. If it gets crinkled it will reflect the light unevenly when the job is through. [http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopSCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a tutorial on the soldering technique to attach the wires to the CCFL bulb. This repair is not as hard as many would think, I've done a number of them on other models, though it is not a job for the faint at heart. If you live in the US [http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-13-3-CCFL-BACKLIGHT-LAMP-APPLE-MACBOOK-A1181-/250538666560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5544aa40|click here] to get one from a reputable seller for $4.00USD. If you live outside the US do a Google search for A1181 CCFL bulb to find offering in your area.
'''ADDING WITH EDIT'''
Machine in question: 2.4GHz - Early 2008 - MB404LL/A - MacBook4,1 - A1181 - 2242
With the parts you have replaced and the symptoms you give, I really suspect that the CCFL is the faulty component here. If you decide to replace the bulb instead of the whole LCD, I suggest you buy one with the wires already soldered on, unless you have excellent soldering skills. "Cold" solders make for bad connections that can/will cause screen flicker and/or humming noise. You also need to make sure the connections are insulated properly. They carry 500 - 600 volts. If not well insulated that voltage can jump/arc to the LCD frame and cause a great deal of damage.
-
To test the inverter cable. Preform a continuity test using an analog multimeter/multitester (One with the needle.) while moving the wires around. Do this for each wire in the cable. If the needle sweeps hard at any point is an the wire and the cable needs replaced. Digital multimeters usually have to slow of a reaction time for this type of test and/or have circuitry in them to ignore quick fluctuations in a reading.
+
To test the inverter cable. Preform a continuity test using an analog multimeter/multitester (One with the needle.) while moving the wires around. Do this for each wire in the cable. If the needle sweeps hard at any point, it is a break in the wire and the cable needs replaced. Digital multimeters usually have to slow of a reaction time for this type of test and/or have circuitry in them to ignore quick fluctuations in a reading.
'''NOTE: The following is for reference only.'''
You have a "3 wall" backlight header/socket on your logic board. With the upper case off when you look at the header socket there are 4 pins to it. The first one to the left is pin #1 and should read 12VDC or a little more (This is the supply line.). Pin #2 should be 5VDC and is what opens the gates on the inverter. Pin #3 is ground - Since the backlight is controlled by PWM (Pulse Wave Modulation) it is actually connected to a tank circuit and with power off may show a difference in potential difference from chassis ground. If the inductor or capacitor is bad in the tank circuit you will only have ground during half a wave cycle. If they are both bad you will have no ground, unless one of them is shorted. Pin #4 is the control voltage and should read 5VDC when the backlight is set to full brightness and something less than that on lower brightness levels. Unless you have special probes for your multimeter/multitester I would only test the voltages on the outer two pins (pin #1 and #4). Most test probes are too large for testing the inner pins (#2 and #3) and risks shorting out parts on the motherboard - and/or inverter, if hooked up.
[http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a generic tutorial on how to replace a CCFL bulb. The gist of the procedure is similar for most LCD screens. I suggest you wear '''non powdered''' rubber gloves when you do this. The oils on your skin can/will leave hot spots on the bulb and discolor what ever else it gets on. Take care when removing the silver tape holding the "tray" the CCFL bulb sits in. You will need to use it again for the install. If it gets crinkled it will reflect the light unevenly when the job is through. [http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopSCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a tutorial on the soldering technique to attach the wires to the CCFL bulb. This repair is not as hard as many would think, I've done a number of them on other models, though it is not a job for the faint at heart. If you live in the US [http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-13-3-CCFL-BACKLIGHT-LAMP-APPLE-MACBOOK-A1181-/250538666560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5544aa40|click here] to get one from a reputable seller for $4.00USD. If you live outside the US do a Google search for A1181 CCFL bulb to find offering in your area.
'''ADDING WITH EDIT'''
Machine in question: 2.4GHz - Early 2008 - MB404LL/A - MacBook4,1 - A1181 - 2242
With the parts you have replaced and the symptoms you give, I really suspect that the CCFL is the faulty component here. If you decide to replace the bulb instead of the whole LCD, I suggest you buy one with the wires already soldered on, unless you have excellent soldering skills. "Cold" solders make for bad connections that can/will cause screen flicker and/or humming noise. You also need to make sure the connections are insulated properly. They carry 500 - 600 volts. If not well insulated that voltage can jump/arc to the LCD frame and cause a great deal of damage.
-
To test the inverter cable. Preform a continuity test using an analog multimeter/multitester (One with the needle.) while moving the wires around. Do this for each wire in the cable. If the needle sweeps hard at any point is an the wire and the cable needs replaced. Digital multimeters usually have to slow of a reaction time for this type of test and/or have circuitry in them to ignore quick fluctuations in a reading.
+
To test the inverter cable. Preform a continuity test using an analog multimeter/multitester (One with the needle.) while moving the wires around. Do this for each wire in the cable. If the needle sweeps hard at any point is an the wire and the cable needs replaced. Digital multimeters usually have to slow of a reaction time for this type of test and/or have circuitry in them to ignore quick fluctuations in a reading.
-
'''NOTE: The following is for reference only.'''
+
'''NOTE: The following is for reference only.'''
-
You have a "3 wall" backlight header/socket on your logic board. With the upper case off when you look at the header socket there are 4 pins to it. The first one to the left is pin #1 and should read 12VDC or a little more (This is the supply line.). Pin #2 should be 5VDC and is what opens the gates on the inverter. Pin #3 is ground - Since the backlight is controlled by PWM (Pulse Wave Modulation) it is actually connected to a tank circuit and with power off may show a difference in potential difference from chassis ground. If the inductor or capacitor is bad in the tank circuit you will only have ground during half a wave cycle. If they are both bad you will have no ground, unless one of them is shorted. Pin #4 is the control voltage and should read 5VDC when the backlight is set to full brightness and something less than that on lower brightness levels. Unless you have special probes for your multimeter/multitester I would only test the voltages on the outer two pins (pin #1 and #4). Most test probes are too large for testing the inner pins (#2 and #3) risks shorting out parts on the motherboard - and/or inverter, if hooked up.
+
You have a "3 wall" backlight header/socket on your logic board. With the upper case off when you look at the header socket there are 4 pins to it. The first one to the left is pin #1 and should read 12VDC or a little more (This is the supply line.). Pin #2 should be 5VDC and is what opens the gates on the inverter. Pin #3 is ground - Since the backlight is controlled by PWM (Pulse Wave Modulation) it is actually connected to a tank circuit and with power off may show a difference in potential difference from chassis ground. If the inductor or capacitor is bad in the tank circuit you will only have ground during half a wave cycle. If they are both bad you will have no ground, unless one of them is shorted. Pin #4 is the control voltage and should read 5VDC when the backlight is set to full brightness and something less than that on lower brightness levels. Unless you have special probes for your multimeter/multitester I would only test the voltages on the outer two pins (pin #1 and #4). Most test probes are too large for testing the inner pins (#2 and #3) and risks shorting out parts on the motherboard - and/or inverter, if hooked up.
[http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a generic tutorial on how to replace a CCFL bulb. The gist of the procedure is similar for most LCD screens. I suggest you wear '''non powdered''' rubber gloves when you do this. The oils on your skin can/will leave hot spots on the bulb and discolor what ever else it gets on. Take care when removing the silver tape holding the "tray" the CCFL bulb sits in. You will need to use it again for the install. If it gets crinkled it will reflect the light unevenly when the job is through. [http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopSCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a tutorial on the soldering technique to attach the wires to the CCFL bulb. This repair is not as hard as many would think, I've done a number of them on other models, though it is not a job for the faint at heart. If you live in the US [http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-13-3-CCFL-BACKLIGHT-LAMP-APPLE-MACBOOK-A1181-/250538666560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5544aa40|click here] to get one from a reputable seller for $4.00USD. If you live outside the US do a Google search for A1181 CCFL bulb to find offering in your area.
+
+
'''ADDING WITH EDIT'''
+
+
Machine in question: 2.4GHz - Early 2008 - MB404LL/A - MacBook4,1 - A1181 - 2242
+
+
With the parts you have replaced and the symptoms you give, I really suspect that the CCFL is the faulty component here. If you decide to replace the bulb instead of the whole LCD, I suggest you buy one with the wires already soldered on, unless you have excellent soldering skills. "Cold" solders make for bad connections that can/will cause screen flicker and/or humming noise. You also need to make sure the connections are insulated properly. They carry 500 - 600 volts. If not well insulated that voltage can jump/arc to the LCD frame and cause a great deal of damage.
+
+
To test the inverter cable. Preform a continuity test using an analog multimeter/multitester (One with the needle.) while moving the wires around. Do this for each wire in the cable. If the needle sweeps hard at any point is an the wire and the cable needs replaced. Digital multimeters usually have to slow of a reaction time for this type of test and/or have circuitry in them to ignore quick fluctuations in a reading.
+
+
'''NOTE: The following is for reference only.'''
+
+
You have a "3 wall" backlight header/socket on your logic board. With the upper case off when you look at the header socket there are 4 pins to it. The first one to the left is pin #1 and should read 12VDC or a little more (This is the supply line.). Pin #2 should be 5VDC and is what opens the gates on the inverter. Pin #3 is ground - Since the backlight is controlled by PWM (Pulse Wave Modulation) it is actually connected to a tank circuit and with power off may show a difference in potential difference from chassis ground. If the inductor or capacitor is bad in the tank circuit you will only have ground during half a wave cycle. If they are both bad you will have no ground, unless one of them is shorted. Pin #4 is the control voltage and should read 5VDC when the backlight is set to full brightness and something less than that on lower brightness levels. Unless you have special probes for your multimeter/multitester I would only test the voltages on the outer two pins (pin #1 and #4). Most test probes are too large for testing the inner pins (#2 and #3) risks shorting out parts on the motherboard - and/or inverter, if hooked up.
[http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a generic tutorial on how to replace a CCFL bulb. The gist of the procedure is similar for most LCD screens. I suggest you use '''non powdered''' rubber gloves when you do this. The oils on your skin can/will leave hot spots on the bulb and discolor what ever else it gets on. Take care when removing the silver tape holding the "tray" the CCFL bulb sits in. You will need to use it again for the install. If it gets crinkled it will reflect the light unevenly when the job is through. This repair is not as hard as many would think, I've done a number of them on other models, though it is not a job for the faint at heart. If you live in the US [http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-13-3-CCFL-BACKLIGHT-LAMP-APPLE-MACBOOK-A1181-/250538666560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5544aa40|click here] to get one from a reputable seller for $4.00USD. If you live outside the US do a Google search for A1181 CCFL bulb to find offering in your area.
+
[http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a generic tutorial on how to replace a CCFL bulb. The gist of the procedure is similar for most LCD screens. I suggest you wear '''non powdered''' rubber gloves when you do this. The oils on your skin can/will leave hot spots on the bulb and discolor what ever else it gets on. Take care when removing the silver tape holding the "tray" the CCFL bulb sits in. You will need to use it again for the install. If it gets crinkled it will reflect the light unevenly when the job is through. [http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopSCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a tutorial on the soldering technique to attach the wires to the CCFL bulb. This repair is not as hard as many would think, I've done a number of them on other models, though it is not a job for the faint at heart. If you live in the US [http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-13-3-CCFL-BACKLIGHT-LAMP-APPLE-MACBOOK-A1181-/250538666560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5544aa40|click here] to get one from a reputable seller for $4.00USD. If you live outside the US do a Google search for A1181 CCFL bulb to find offering in your area.
[http://lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx|Click here,] for a generic tutorial on how to replace a CCFL bulb. The gist of the procedure is similar for most LCD screens. I suggest you use '''non powdered''' rubber gloves when you do this. The oils on your skin can/will leave hot spots on the bulb and discolor what ever else it gets on. Take care when removing the silver tape holding the "tray" the CCFL bulb sits in. You will need to use it again for the install. If it gets crinkled it will reflect the light unevenly when the job is through. This repair is not as hard as many would think, I've done a number of them on other models, though it is not a job for the faint at heart. If you live in the US [http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-13-3-CCFL-BACKLIGHT-LAMP-APPLE-MACBOOK-A1181-/250538666560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5544aa40|click here] to get one from a reputable seller for $4.00USD. If you live outside the US do a Google search for A1181 CCFL bulb to find offering in your area.