crwdns2933423:0crwdne2933423:0
crwdns2918538:0crwdne2918538:0

crwdns2934241:0crwdne2934241:0 Jerry Wheeler

crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:

Hi Gaul,

It's a little hard to be sure from your pictures, but it appears the circuit trace going to that pad where the speaker contacts it has been damaged. The best way to fix it is to solder a jumper wire from that pad to another point past the break; that will give you a good, continuous connection for current flow. I poked around looking for schematics and/or Gerber (boardview) files, but didn't have any luck; having those would make the job considerably easier.

Anyway, it looks as though there might be test points nearby; it's conceivable that one of them is connected to that pad; if so, that's a major step in the right direction. What you'll have to do is figure out an exposed point that you can take some thin wire, say 22 AWG, and solder it onto that pad, then run it to another point within that same circuit. If you look carefully you'll see the copper circuit board traces are there and covered by black stuff called solder mask; the traces are under that, but insulated so they don't make contact with anything other than what they're supposed to touch.

If you can visually follow the path of that trace, you'll hopefully come to some point on the other side of the break where there's metal exposed, whether that's a test point (the gold circles) or a component doesn't matter. That's the place to solder the other end of the jumper wire to.

If you can't make it out by looking at it, the next thing to try would be to use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to try and find a contact point. This might be more difficult due to the break; the contact may be intermittent depending on the break and whether it's flexed in a position where it's open or it's making contact. I'd try probing a couple of points and pressing on the break to see if you get a beep indicating continuity.

I've marked a couple of places that look like likely candidates to check; don't limit yourself to those, but they're worth checking. The red arrow is pointing to the speaker pad where you'll put one end of the jumper wire, and the orange arrows are test points that are worth checking.  Also check the components around that area; there are several resistors and capacitors nearby that could be connected to the pad.

[image|2856305]

crwdns2915684:0crwdne2915684:0:

open