@cameronmcd no power and no standby light is usually an indication of a bad power board. Post an image with a close-up of the power board. You need to check for power (110V !) on your rectifier to see if you got power on the hot side. If you do check to see if you have power on the connector that goes to the mainboard. See if your board has the 11V going to that. If it does not you will need to check the capacitors as well as the sides on the board. Hence the need for a close-up picture of your power board.
=== Update (09/25/2021) ===
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@cameronmcd this is a power board model that has issues with some of the diodes. You will need a multimeter to check it further. First, check the fuse for continuity. If the fuse is okay you can check for power on the rectifier. Remember this is the Hot side so you have full AC voltage which will pack a punch if you get zapped on it. Use your multimeter in AC mode and place the probes on the two center points and you should get the AC voltage on there. You can check the rectifier by then putting your meter in DC mode and place the red probe to + connector (on the top side as shown on your picture) and the black probe on the negative connector (bottom connector in your image) Your meter should now show that voltage in DC. Again it’s the Hot side so the full voltage is expected. If that voltage shows check J811 for 13V DC. If that is not present your board most likely has bad diodes. Replacing those could get you back in business. I could not find the schematics for this board so it will be difficult to test it further. Like @jayeff said, you can of course skip all this and replace the board. It’ll be less fun but could save you time and aggregation.
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@cameronmcd this is a power board model that has issues with some of the diodes. Visually it checks out and no obvious damaged components like blown caps. You will need a multimeter to check it further. First, check the fuse for continuity. If the fuse is okay you can check for power on the rectifier. Remember this is the Hot side so you have full AC voltage which will pack a punch if you get zapped on it. Use your multimeter in AC mode and place the probes on the two center points and you should get the AC voltage on there. You can check the rectifier by then putting your meter in DC mode and place the red probe to + connector (on the top side as shown on your picture) and the black probe on the negative connector (bottom connector in your image) Your meter should now show that voltage in DC. Again it’s the Hot side so the full voltage is expected. If that voltage shows check J811 for 13V DC. If that is not present your board most likely has bad diodes. Replacing those could get you back in business. I could not find the schematics for this board so it will be difficult to test it further. Like @jayeff said, you can of course skip all this and replace the board. It’ll be less fun but could save you time and aggregation.
@cameronmcd no power and no standby light is usually an indication of a bad power board. Post an image with a close-up of the power board. You need to check for power (110V !) on your rectifier to see if you got power on the hot side. If you do check to see if you have power on the connector that goes to the mainboard. See if your board has the 11V going to that. If it does not you will need to check the capacitors as well as the sides on the board. Hence the need for a close-up picture of your power board.
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=== Update (09/25/2021) ===
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@cameronmcd this is a power board model that has issues with some of the diodes. You will need a multimeter to check it further. First, check the fuse for continuity. If the fuse is okay you can check for power on the rectifier. Remember this is the Hot side so you have full AC voltage which will pack a punch if you get zapped on it. Use your multimeter in AC mode and place the probes on the two center points and you should get the AC voltage on there. You can check the rectifier by then putting your meter in DC mode and place the red probe to + connector (on the top side as shown on your picture) and the black probe on the negative connector (bottom connector in your image) Your meter should now show that voltage in DC. Again it’s the Hot side so the full voltage is expected. If that voltage shows check J811 for 13V DC. If that is not present your board most likely has bad diodes. Replacing those could get you back in business. I could not find the schematics for this board so it will be difficult to test it further. Like @jayeff said, you can of course skip all this and replace the board. It’ll be less fun but could save you time and aggregation.
@cameronmcd no power and no standby light is usually an indication of a bad power board. Post an image with a close-up of the power board.
+
@cameronmcd no power and no standby light is usually an indication of a bad power board. Post an image with a close-up of the power board. You need to check for power (110V !) on your rectifier to see if you got power on the hot side. If you do check to see if you have power on the connector that goes to the mainboard. See if your board has the 11V going to that. If it does not you will need to check the capacitors as well as the sides on the board. Hence the need for a close-up picture of your power board.