Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut. Place your ear close to the fridge to hear it if necessary, in case you have a quiet fan.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
-
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
+
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating. I realize that you said that nothing appears to be iced over, but did you remove the freezer back panel and check the evap unit and the evap fan, you didn’t say?
-
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
+
If not then '''disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator''
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while you’re checking the drain tube, give the condenser coil, near the compressor a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut. Place your ear close to the fridge to hear it if necessary, in case you have a quiet fan.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator''
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
-
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while your checking the drain tube, give the condenser coil, near the compressor a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
+
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while you’re checking the drain tube, give the condenser coil, near the compressor a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
-
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut. Place your ear close to the fridge to hear it if necessary, if you have a quiet fan.
+
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut. Place your ear close to the fridge to hear it if necessary, in case you have a quiet fan.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator''
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while your checking the drain tube, give the condenser coil, near the compressor a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
-
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
+
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut. Place your ear close to the fridge to hear it if necessary, if you have a quiet fan.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator''
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while your checking the drain tube, give the condenser coil, near the compressor a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator''
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
-
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while your checking the drain tube, give the condeser coil a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
+
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while your checking the drain tube, give the condenser coil, near the compressor a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
-
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator ;-)''
+
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator''
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
-
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
+
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc. Also while your checking the drain tube, give the condeser coil a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust etc. as this will improve the efficiency of the cooling system as more absorbed heat can be released from the refrigerant gas before it has to be pumped back through the evap unit.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
+
'''Note:''' ''If the evap unit and evap fan are iced over, leave the fridge powered off and leave the door open to allow the ice to melt naturally. You can use a hair dryer but only on the coolest setting and then only for short periods at a time. The evaporator unit is made of thin aluminium and it is not really designed to withstand hot temperatures, at least not above ambient anyway. Also have plenty of towels available in case the melting ice water overflows the evap pan below the refrigerator ;-)''
+
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
-
Disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
+
'''Disconnect the power from the refrigerator''' and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
Disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
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Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results
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Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results.
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
Disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
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To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here prevent the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
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Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to check that it is OK. I don’t know what its resistance value should be (maybe 25-50 Ohms?) but it should ''not'' be open circuit.
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The bi-metalthermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur..
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To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here preventing the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
-
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help to to located the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results
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The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur.
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Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help you to locate the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
Disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here prevent the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur..
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Here’s is a link to all the https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help to to located the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results
+
Here’s is a link to all the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help to to located the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results
Hi @ldh1313
Check if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is running.
The fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running and that both the doors are closed. The fan is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel along with the evaporator unit. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run whether the compressor is running or not.
You should be able to hear the fan stop when you open a door (either door) and start again when the door is shut.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. If the fan is not working, for whatever reason then the freezer compartment will be nearly at the correct operating temperature because that is where the evaporator unit, which produces the cold temperatures is located but the refrigerator section will warm up.
If you cannot hear the fan at all then it may be a faulty fan, a faulty power supply to the fan or perhaps the fan is iced over and this prevents it from operating.
Disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then remove the back panel from inside the freezer compartment (remove from the front through the door of the compartment) to expose the evaporator unit, the defrost heater which is mounted below it and the evaporator fan
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty power supply to the heater from the control board, a blocked drain tube from below the evaporator unit to the evaporator pan under the compartments, a faulty bi metal defrost thermostat or a faulty control board.
To check if the drain tube is blocked, pour a measured amount of water (cupful) down the drain hole which is under the evaporator unit and check that it all get to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Sometimes the drain tube where it exits the refrigerator above the evap pan has what is known as a J curve and it can get blocked here prevent the defrost meltwater from reaching the pan and evaporating and it backs up and refreezes once the defrost cycle has ended and eventually is ends up icing over the fan etc.
The bi-metal thermostat controls the length of the defrost cycle initiated by the control board and if it is faulty it may not have given enough time for all the ice to be melted during the cycle so it builds up etc. on each defrost cycle. The defrost cycles occurs once every approx. 10 hours and lasts for ~20 minutes. During this time the compressor and evap fan are turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit. Once the cycle has ended the heater is turned off and the compressor and fan are turned on again to drive down the temps to the set operating temps, until the next defrost cycle has to occur..
Here’s is a link to all the https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5du0bndtq6-000432/ge-gsl25jftabs-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts] for your model. The diagrams will help to to located the various parts I mentioned. If you find the problem and it is a faulty part then there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for ''GSL25JFTABS'' parts to get results