Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
'''Be safety aware''' ''when working in the back of the TV as there is'' '''exposed lethal AC power''' ''on the board when the power is connected to the TV. Stay focused on what you are doing.''
'''Note:'''
-
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
+
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately when the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
I mentioned that it is an ''axial'' type that you have to search for or get as that signifies that the type of fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board and that it is not one that just plugs into a fuse holder
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
-
'''Be safety aware''' ''when working in the back of the TV as there is'' '''exposed lethal AC power''' ''on the board when the power is connected to the TV''
+
'''Be safety aware''' ''when working in the back of the TV as there is'' '''exposed lethal AC power''' ''on the board when the power is connected to the TV. Stay focused on what you are doing.''
'''Note:'''
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
I mentioned that it is an ''axial'' type that you have to search for or get as that signifies that the type of fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board and that it is not one that just plugs into a fuse holder
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
+
+
'''Be safety aware''' ''when working in the back of the TV as there is'' '''exposed lethal AC power''' ''on the board when the power is connected to the TV''
'''Note:'''
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
I mentioned that it is an ''axial'' type that you have to search for or get as that signifies that the type of fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board and that it is not one that just plugs into a fuse holder
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
'''Note:'''
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
-
I mentioned that it is an ''axial'' type that you have to search for or get as that ''''signifies that type of fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board and that it is not one that just plugs into a fuse holder
+
I mentioned that it is an ''axial'' type that you have to search for or get as that signifies that the type of fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board and that it is not one that just plugs into a fuse holder
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
'''Note:'''
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
-
The ''axial'' designation signifies that the fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board
+
I mentioned that it is an ''axial'' type that you have to search for or get as that ''''signifies that type of fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board and that it is not one that just plugs into a fuse holder
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
'''Note:'''
-
Make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected.
+
The fuse is designated as ''250V T3.15 AL'' so make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. T= Timed (aka slow blow)
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
The ''axial'' designation signifies that the fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
-
Make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. A slow blow fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may alao help if you need to replace them during the course of testing where the problem is.
+
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. This is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things in order to find out what’s wrong.
+
+
It would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
+
+
'''Note:'''
+
+
Make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard (aka fast acting) 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected.
+
+
A ''slow blow'' fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may also help if you need to replace it a few times during the course of testing where the problem is.
The ''axial'' designation signifies that the fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board
-
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. this is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things inorder to find out what’s wrong.
-
it would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
-
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is onthe same boar dit may be causing the problem. this is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things inorder to find out what’s wrong.
+
Make sure that the fuse is a [https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T3-15AL250V-3-15A-250V-Axial-3-15A-SLOW-Blow-Fuse-Time-Delay-3-6x10mm-/273505548709|250V 3.15 ''slow blow'' axial fuse] as a standard 250V 3.15 fuse would blow immediately that the power was connected due to the high inrush current when the power is first connected. A slow blow fuse is designed to hold for the 10-12 mS before this current subsides. Getting 10 fuses may alao help if you need to replace them during the course of testing where the problem is.
-
it would be a lot easier withthe schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
+
The ''axial'' designation signifies that the fuse has wire pigtails so that it can be soldered to the board
+
+
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is on the same board it may be causing the problem. this is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things inorder to find out what’s wrong.
+
+
it would be a lot easier with the schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV, you didn’t say?
Disconnect the power from the TV and use an Ohmmeter to check the fuse.
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.
-
[image|2303067] (click on image to enlarge for better viewing)
+
If it is blown then the reason for that will have to be found. You could try replacing the fuse and then disconnecting the LED backlights and then connecting the power to the TV and check if the red standby light comes on.
+
+
If not check the fuse again and if it is OK then check if the IR board is OK. If the power button is onthe same boar dit may be causing the problem. this is only conjecture but you have to start eliminating things inorder to find out what’s wrong.
+
+
it would be a lot easier withthe schematic or a service manual but I can’t find either. You may have better luck
Hi,
Have you checked that the fuse on the board is still OK and not that it blew when you connected it all up and applied power to the TV?
If you still have the old mainboard/power board check its fuse also to see whether it is OK or not.