Since you have replaced the freezer temperature sensor and the electronic control board and presumably the refrigerant gas in the sealed system was recharged to the correct pressure when the compressor tube was fixed here are some more things to check:
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Since you have replaced both of the freezer temperature sensors and the electronic control board and presumably the refrigerant gas in the sealed system was recharged to the correct pressure when the compressor tube was fixed here are some more things to check:
a). Check that the ice chute door flapper [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/13vg6etqx5-000432/ge-gshf6hgdbcww-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|part #62 - freezer door parts diagram] is closing properly.
If the door flapper is broken, it could allow the outside air to enter the freezer compartment which can prevent the compartment getting to the desired temp. A tell tale sign may be a frost buildup around the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever or the tabs that hold it in place may be broken.
b). Check that the condenser fan (part#650 sealed system and motherboard diagram) is operating and that the condenser coils (part #730 sealed system and motherboard diagram) are clean and free of dust etc.
If the fan is not operating when it should (it is usually thermostatically (thermistor) controlled so it only operates when necessary) or the condenser coils are covered in dust then the refrigerant cannot dissipate the heat it has absorbed when it passes through the evaporator unit in the freezer compartment as readily and this can affect the cooling efficiency of the sealed system.
c). Check that the evaporator unit is being defrosted correctly at least once every 10 hours or so. If all the frost is not being melted off the evaporator unit during the defrost cycle there may be a problem with the defrost heater (part #230 - freezer section)
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d). If all the above check out OK then verify the wiring from the two temperature sensors back to the control board just in case there is a wiring problem and one of the sensors may actually be disconnected due to a wiring fault e.g. an open circuit somewhere in the wiring harness which may be affecting what the readings are and how the control board reacts to them..
Hi,
Since you have replaced the freezer temperature sensor and the electronic control board and presumably the refrigerant gas in the sealed system was recharged to the correct pressure when the compressor tube was fixed here are some more things to check:
a). Check that the ice chute door flapper [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/13vg6etqx5-000432/ge-gshf6hgdbcww-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|part #62 - freezer door parts diagram] is closing properly.
If the door flapper is broken, it could allow the outside air to enter the freezer compartment which can prevent the compartment getting to the desired temp. A tell tale sign may be a frost buildup around the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever or the tabs that hold it in place may be broken.
b). Check that the condenser fan (part#650 sealed system and motherboard diagram) is operating and that the condenser coils (part #730 sealed system and motherboard diagram) are clean and free of dust etc.
If the fan is not operating when it should (it is usually thermostatically (thermistor) controlled so it only operates when necessary) or the condenser coils are covered in dust then the refrigerant cannot dissipate the heat it has absorbed when it passes through the evaporator unit in the freezer compartment as readily and this can affect the cooling efficiency of the sealed system.
c). Check that the evaporator unit is being defrosted correctly at least once every 10 hours or so. If all the frost is not being melted off the evaporator unit during the defrost cycle there may be a problem with the defrost heater (part #230 - freezer section)