Yep, there two ways that I use to shield surrounding components of what you are heating up.
* Apply Kapton (Yellow non-conductive) tape to surrounding components
* Use thick metal objects that absorb heat well like a penny / coin (if needed)
Pre-heating the board to something like 80°C will make it easier to remove the component being heated.
-
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat components for too long (1-2 Minutes max in my opinion).
+
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat components for too long when putting them on to the board.
For a lot of my re-work I use 380-480°C depending on the heat required, this will vary between hot air stations so might want to practice removing and putting back SMD components / BGA components on dead boards first.
Yep, there two ways that I use to shield surrounding components of what you are heating up.
* Apply Kapton (Yellow non-conductive) tape to surrounding components
* Use thick metal objects that absorb heat well like a penny / coin (if needed)
Pre-heating the board to something like 80°C will make it easier to remove the component being heated.
-
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat components for too long.
+
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat components for too long (1-2 Minutes max in my opinion).
For a lot of my re-work I use 380-480°C depending on the heat required, this will vary between hot air stations so might want to practice removing and putting back SMD components / BGA components on dead boards first.
Yep, there two ways that I use to shield surrounding components of what you are heating up.
* Apply Kapton (Yellow non-conductive) tape to surrounding components
* Use thick metal objects that absorb heat well like a penny / coin (if needed)
Pre-heating the board to something like 80°C will make it easier to remove the component being heated.
-
-
-
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat too much.
-
-
+
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat components for too long.
For a lot of my re-work I use 380-480°C depending on the heat required, this will vary between hot air stations so might want to practice removing and putting back SMD components / BGA components on dead boards first.
Yep, there two ways that I use to shield surrounding components of what you are heating up.
* Apply Kapton (Yellow non-conductive) tape to surrounding components
* Use thick metal objects that absorb heat well like a penny / coin (if needed)
+
Pre-heating the board to something like 80°C will make it easier to remove the component being heated.
-
Pre-heating the board to something like 80°C will make it easier to remove the component being heated. Avoid using a small nozzle for the heat gun and don’t heat too much. For a lot of my re-work I use 380-480°C depending on the heat required, this will vary between hot air stations so might want to practice removing and putting back SMD components / BGA components on dead boards first.
+
+
+
Avoid using a small nozzle as they are prone to blowing surrounding components away for the heat gun and don’t heat too much.
+
+
+
+
For a lot of my re-work I use 380-480°C depending on the heat required, this will vary between hot air stations so might want to practice removing and putting back SMD components / BGA components on dead boards first.
Yep, there two ways that I use to shield surrounding components of what you are heating up.
* Apply Kapton (Yellow non-conductive) tape to surrounding components
* Use thick metal objects that absorb heat well like a penny / coin (if needed)
Pre-heating the board to something like 80°C will make it easier to remove the component being heated. Avoid using a small nozzle for the heat gun and don’t heat too much. For a lot of my re-work I use 380-480°C depending on the heat required, this will vary between hot air stations so might want to practice removing and putting back SMD components / BGA components on dead boards first.