GE Profile Side-by-side refrigerator is holding steady at wrong temp
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
This fridge has a history of issues. In the past, it has always been the inverter board that was overheated or fried. It’s gotten to where I keep an extra board on hand, just in case. This time it’s a little different. The fridge side is holding steady at 53 degrees. The freezer is holding steady at 27. (The fridge is set at 40, and the freezer at 4.). I can see that the compressor fan is blowing, and I can hear and feel that the compressor is running.
Since it’s the one trick I know, the first thing I tried was replacing the inverter board. The new board has been in for hours now, and no change. While replacing the inverter board, I noticed that there was a good bit of water under the compressor. I’ve never noticed that before. Looking online, that sounds normal, but it’s new to me. I sponged it up, and didn’t see more accumulate.
After the new board didn’t have any effect, I pull out the multimeter and did some tests. The control line to the inverter board is at 11.8V. When I disconnect the control line, the compressor stops running. When I plug it back in, the compressor starts running again. I measured the resistance across the posts on the compressor. All three combinations come up at 7.8 Ohms.
Everything seems to be working, except for the part where it’s not. Any suggestions?
GE Profile Side-by-side refrigerator is holding steady at wrong temp
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
This fridge has a history of issues. In the past, it has always been the inverter board that was overheated or fried. It’s gotten to where I keep an extra board on hand, just in case. This time it’s a little different. The fridge side is holding steady at 53 degrees. The freezer is holding steady at 27. (The fridge is set at 40, and the freezer at 4.). I can see that the compressor fan is blowing, and I can hear and feel that the compressor is running.
Since it’s the one trick I know, the first thing I tried was replacing the inverter board. The new board has been in for hours now, and no change. While replacing the inverter board, I noticed that there was a good bit of water under the compressor. I’ve never noticed that before. Looking online, that sounds normal, but it’s new to me. I sponged it up, and didn’t see more accumulate.
After the new board didn’t have any effect, I pull out the multimeter and did some tests. The control line to the inverter board is at 11.8V. When I disconnect the control line, the compressor stops running. When I plug it back in, the compressor starts running again. I measured the resistance across the posts on the compressor. All three combinations come up at 7.8 Ohms.
Everything seems to be working, except for the part where it’s not. Any suggestions?
GE Profile Side-by-side refrigerator is holding steady at wrong temp
crwdns2934249:0crwdne2934249:0:
This fridge has a history of issues. In the past, it has always been the inverter board that was overheated or fried. It’s gotten to where I keep an extra board on hand, just in case. This time it’s a little different. The fridge side is holding steady at 53 degrees. The freezer is holding steady at 27. (The fridge is set at 40, and the freezer at 4.). I can see that the compressor fan is blowing, and I can hear and feel that the compressor is running.
Since it’s the one trick I know, the first thing I tried was replacing the inverter board. The new board has been in for hours now, and no change. While replacing the inverter board, I noticed that there was a good bit of water under the compressor. I’ve never noticed that before. Looking online, that sounds normal, but it’s new to me. I sponged it up, and didn’t see more accumulate.
After the new board didn’t have any effect, I pull out the multimeter and did some tests. The control line to the inverter board is at 11.8V. When I disconnect the control line, the compressor stops running. When I plug it back in, the compressor starts running again. I measured the resistance across the posts on the compressor. All three combinations come up at 7.8 Ohms.
Everything seems to be working, except for the part where it’s not. Any suggestions?