New Headbolts are recommended
Long bolts are torqued to 46'lbs + 90 degrees.
Short bolts are torqued 43'lbs + 90 degrees.
Start in the center, and work to the edges, torquing the bolts in two stages.
Rockers are torqued to 22'lbs.
When torquing to final spec of 100 degrees, first tighten 60 degrees on all the bolts in the same order as the first two steps, then an additional 40 degrees all around in the same order.
The head bolts are torqued to yield on these engines, meaning that once they have been torqued to specification, they must be replaced when removed. If it is an OHV engine (solid push rods with and internal camshaft and rockers on the head studs) there is a sequence to tightening the head bolts. First, tighten all bolts in a circular motion, starting from the center and working outwards. I prefer to go in a clockwise rotation, but as long as it is in the correct order, rotation is not important. The long bolts must first be tightened to 22 lb/ft and the short ones to 23 lb/ft. Next, in the same order as before, tighten the long bolts to 43 lb/ft and the short bolts to 46 lb/ft. Finally, in the same order as the previous two steps, torque all the bolts an ADDITIONAL 100 degrees (10 degrees past 1/4 turn). A torque angle meter is required to do this properly and to specification. A routine of mine that is not necessary, but I have found helps prevent warping when torquing the head, is when torquing to final spec of 100 degrees, first tighten 60 degrees on all the bolts in the same order as the first two steps, then an additional 40 degrees all around in the same order.