There's a product called JB Weld Plastic Weld, that is like a two-part epoxy, except it comes as two play-doh parts instead of liquid, and is designed to bond with plastic. Make sure to get the Plastic Weld, not regular JB Weld. About $7 for a cylinder of it, you'll only need about a quarter of that.
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Take a file or very rough sandpaper and rough up the area around the weak hinge, for better bonding. Then set the broken ear of the headset back in place as much as possible. Cut off some of the Plastic Weld, thoroughly blend the two parts by kneading. From this point you have about 9-10 minutes to get it in place. Pack the inside of the hinge with as much Weld as you can press in there, mold the rest over the inside and around the outside of the hinge, making a solid band around the hinge. Might as well do the other side too, it's going to break eventually if you don't. Use a straightedge to make the top and bottom of the weld band nice and straight and smooth, make sure that the sides are continuous from inside to outside, one solid band around the hinge.
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Take a file or very rough sandpaper and rough up the area around the weak hinge, for better bonding. Then set the broken ear of the headset back in place as much as possible. Cut off some of the Plastic Weld, thoroughly blend the two parts by kneading. From this point you have about 9-10 minutes to get it in place. Pack the inside of the hinge with as much Weld as you can press in there, mold the rest over the inside and around the outside of the hinge, making a solid 1-inch band around the hinge. Might as well do the other side too, it's going to break eventually if you don't. Use a straightedge to make the top and bottom of the weld band nice and straight and smooth, make sure that the sides are continuous from inside to outside, one solid band around the hinge.
Put some small object between the earpieces to just barely flex the headset outward. You don't want the earpieces to be bent inward at all as it dries, but you also don't want to put something in there so large that it dislocates the broken earpiece, either. Let it dry completely, according to the directions, I think it's 24-48 hours. When dry, take a Sharpie and color the gray weld band black.
Your hinges are now stronger than any other part of the headset.
There's a product called JB Weld Plastic Weld, that is like a two-part epoxy, except it comes as two play-doh parts instead of liquid, and is designed to bond with plastic. Make sure to get the Plastic Weld, not regular JB Weld. About $7 for a cylinder of it, you'll only need about a quarter of that.
Take a file or very rough sandpaper and rough up the area around the weak hinge, for better bonding. Then set the broken ear of the headset back in place as much as possible. Cut off some of the Plastic Weld, thoroughly blend the two parts by kneading. From this point you have about 9-10 minutes to get it in place. Pack the inside of the hinge with as much Weld as you can press in there, mold the rest over the inside and around the outside of the hinge, making a solid band around the hinge. Might as well do the other side too, it's going to break eventually if you don't. Use a straightedge to make the top and bottom of the weld band nice and straight and smooth, make sure that the sides are continuous from inside to outside, one solid band around the hinge.
Put some small object between the earpieces to just barely flex the headset outward. You don't want the earpieces to be bent inward at all as it dries, but you also don't want to put something in there so large that it dislocates the broken earpiece, either. Let it dry completely, according to the directions, I think it's 24-48 hours. When dry, take a Sharpie and color the gray weld band black.
Your hinges are now stronger than any other part of the headset.