With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
-
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp, usually set on mine for a 45-60 deg. C wash.
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time (and power used for the heater) is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp, usually set on mine for a 45-60 deg. C wash.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
-
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp.
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp, usually set on mine for a 45-60 deg. C wash.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps the Turbidity sensor might also be worth looking at.
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
-
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):
+
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps the Turbidity sensor might also be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
-
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
+
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps the Turbidity sensor might also be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
-
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
-
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
+
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or possibly even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
-
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem.
+
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
-
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
+
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem.
-
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
+
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem or even the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity Sensor].
-
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
+
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed and also I don't know if it resets or has to be replaced.
+
+
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem.
+
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" I'm assuming you mean the Bi -Metal Strip found in the Control panel, is this the one you mean? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed.
+
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed and also I don't know if it resets or has to be replaced.
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
+
By "Hi Limit Thermostat" I'm assuming you mean the Bi -Metal Strip found in the Control panel, is this the one you mean? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed.
+
Just wondering whether it might be the actual [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
-
According to the user guide(and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
+
According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher sensor is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
-
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
+
(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
+
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/661566/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Dishwasher thermostat] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
-
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
-
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash, rinse water heating time is minimized because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
-
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
+
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at. If not then perhaps the problem might be with the control board.
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water? If so then perhaps it could be worth looking at. If not then perhaps the problem might be with the control board.
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
-
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
+
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and Motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
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Hi,
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Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
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(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
+
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
+
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
+
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
-
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
+
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Just wondering since you have checked the most obvious areas whether it might be the [http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10134017/0022/665.html?modelNumber=KUDE60FVSS2&categoryName=Dishwasher&brandName=KITCHENAID|Turbidity sensor] that is causing the problem.
+
(part #19 in the Pump , Washarm and motor Parts section http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KUDE60FVSS2/0593/0130000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KUDE60FVSS2,&searchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2,)
+
According to the user guide (and I'm assuming that this is the sensor that they're talking about):
+
"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the ''incoming water is less than the recommended temperature ''or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, ''heat'' and water as needed." (The'' italics'' are my addition to the quote).
+
I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse.
+
Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?
+
As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage on my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher water inlet (via a tempering valve- dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash , rinse water heating time is reduced because the water is usually near the required temp.
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
-
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is.
+
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?
Hi,
With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?
Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is.
http://www.partselect.com/Models/KUDE60FVSS2/Parts/PS2360984-Whirlpool-W10258275-Bi-Metal-Fuse.htm?SourceCode=20&SearchTerm=KUDE60FVSS2&ModelNum=KUDE60FVSS2&ModelID=1619237&fSearchTerm=CONTROL-PANEL-PARTS&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=6TU9TVRJ&Position=1&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Dishwasher&Mark=1