Old thread, posting in the hopes that it might help someone in their pet project of reviving a once great machine...
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''Old thread, posting in the hopes that it might help someone in their pet project of reviving a once great machine...''
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Just completed repair of a utterly devastated MBP. When I picked this up, the only thing between the display and the bottom case was the LVDS and iSight/Bluetooth cables. The inner frame was broken in two places, and so the hinge mechanism did not work.
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Just completed repair of an utterly devastated MBP. When I picked this unit up, the only thing between the display and the bottom case was the LVDS and iSight/Bluetooth cables. The inner frame was broken in two places, thus the hinge mechanism did not work. Previous owner used it in a primite "desktop" mode, resting the display with encyclopedias.
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Using "metal glue" was an idea. Searched online and found this:
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Using "metal glue" was an idea. So I searched online and found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay08yENgF88|this]
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay08yENgF88
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Tried the same approach. '''Epoxy metal glue works to secure a broken inner frame to the display case.'''
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I bought the double-syringe type epoxy metal glue and tried the same approach. Now I can confidently report that '''Epoxy metal glue works to secure a broken inner frame to the display case.''' :-)
Things to be careful (in no particular order, just a brain dump)
# Fine sanding of inner part of display casing recommended. You will see the dark yellowish remains of the glue Apple used. Yes, they used glue.
# Carefully note the slot where the LVDS cable slips under the inner metal frame, there is a slot there. NO GLUE.
# Check for plastic hinge cover's spots where it's tabs "click" to the metal frame. NO GLUE. Otherwise you'll have to "shave" the plastic hinge cover. Yes, that's me.
# Use masking tape, especially in the front of the display casing. When this glue is cured, it is hard to remove without scratching the Al case.
# Use clamps after applying the glue. Cannot stress this enough. If don't have them, either borrow from thy neighbour, or buy cheapo ones that have springs, from a store (Those cheapos are surprisingly strong).
# Wait a full day for full curing, never moving the assembly while it is getting cured and clamped.
# When first using the double-syringes, they pour out unequal parts of epoxy and glue. Only mix when equal parts of epoxy and glue are squeezed out of the nozzles.
# You will have approx. 45 minutes to work with the glue mixture comfortably. Plan ahead and work fast. Or heat up the glue mixture for more than 45 mins working time. Though the entire process should take no more than 20 mins.
You will probably suffer from a dirty LCD screen and "glass" bezel. Be careful when wiping them clean. Microfibre is your friend. If there are spots on the "glass" bezel where the black paint is scratched, apply black nail polish from inside. Also, get double-sided thin tape to stick that bezel to the display case, carefully watching the black rubber "stopper" that goes around the screen.
I didn't know that the "glass" bezel was '''not''' serviceable. Apple Technician manual suggests replacing the complete screen assembly if something happens to the "glass" bezel. Yes, complete screen assembly. What a waste, eh?
Old thread, posting in the hopes that it might help someone in their pet project of reviving a once great machine...
Just completed repair of a utterly devastated MBP. When I picked this up, the only thing between the display and the bottom case was the LVDS and iSight/Bluetooth cables. The inner frame was broken in two places, and so the hinge mechanism did not work.
Using "metal glue" was an idea. Searched online and found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay08yENgF88
Tried the same approach. '''Epoxy metal glue works to secure a broken inner frame to the display case.'''
Things to be careful (in no particular order, just a brain dump)
# Fine sanding of inner part of display casing recommended. You will see the dark yellowish remains of the glue Apple used. Yes, they used glue.
# Carefully note the slot where the LVDS cable slips under the inner metal frame, there is a slot there. NO GLUE.
# Check for plastic hinge cover's spots where it's tabs "click" to the metal frame. NO GLUE. Otherwise you'll have to "shave" the plastic hinge cover. Yes, that's me.
# Use masking tape, especially in the front of the display casing. When this glue is cured, it is hard to remove without scratching the Al case.
# Use clamps after applying the glue. Cannot stress this enough. If don't have them, either borrow from thy neighbour, or buy cheapo ones that have springs, from a store (Those cheapos are surprisingly strong).
# Wait a full day for full curing, never moving the assembly while it is getting cured and clamped.
# When first using the double-syringes, they pour out unequal parts of epoxy and glue. Only mix when equal parts of epoxy and glue are squeezed out of the nozzles.
# You will have approx. 45 minutes to work with the glue mixture comfortably. Plan ahead and work fast. Or heat up the glue mixture for more than 45 mins working time. Though the entire process should take no more than 20 mins.
You will probably suffer from a dirty LCD screen and "glass" bezel. Be careful when wiping them clean. Microfibre is your friend. If there are spots on the "glass" bezel where the black paint is scratched, apply black nail polish from inside. Also, get double-sided thin tape to stick that bezel to the display case, carefully watching the black rubber "stopper" that goes around the screen.
I didn't know that the "glass" bezel was '''not''' serviceable. Apple Technician manual suggests replacing the complete screen assembly if something happens to the "glass" bezel. Yes, complete screen assembly. What a waste, eh?
Good luck.