So basically can this flex cable be replaced and if so does anyone know where to purchase it? I have enclosed pictures

⟐ Answered 6月 03, 2016 at 13:58 GMT-7

Last couple of weeks it's been more difficult to get it to come back on, and this week it was off for a few days. Tonight I managed to restart it and it came back on, so I've backed up again ready for more serious measures.

Thinking it might be the connection to the display, display data cable ???

⟐ Commented 7月 14, 2015 at 18:31 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 21, 2012 at 15:53 GMT-7

I have a question, I have 4/5 ipads, and one of them not able to restore or charge.

I tried the typical fast solutions, and I am experienced with Apple products, but this iPad wont go to DUF mode, and wont charge, but the funny thing is still on (16% battery).

Any ideas?

I tried DFU like 30 minutes in different ways (Even I know how it is) and nothing change, nothing detected on the macbook neither (Catalina).

I plugged to the wall, to the mac, and nothing. Same cable tried in other ipads, and working correctly, but I am pretty sure the hardware port itself should be working, as has battery, and this is from our last check up a year ago.

Are you able to help in here please? Do not know how to proceed.. The ipad works, but can not be connected to the machine neither being charged at the moment.

• iPad 3 (A1430)
• MacOS Catalina 10.15.3

I just discovered that my iPad3 has a nasty reboot loop problem.

(thus redifining the concept of a Bad Apple!)

Normally, I would just reset the silly thing, but since the iPad's battery is drained, here is my situation:

1) without the power supply, the iPad plays dead (it turns itself off after displaying an icon requesting to be supplied with power);

2) with the power supply cable back in place, the red and almost empty indicator appears, thus leading one to believe it will be refilling itself with power.

3) after a minimal amount of power was taken in (approx 30 to 60 seconds worth of juice) the white apple reboot logo appears on the screen.

4) after about another 20 to 40 seconds, the login keyboard appears for about a third of a second, then suddendly all goes to black and a spinning grey multibar indicator rotates before the step 2,3 and 4 cycle restarts again, and again, and again…

I cannot simply reset the unit since there is not enough power for me to access it for even that simple task.

…And since my iPad consumes more energy that it can take and store in the batteries when the screen is set at full brigtness (which it obviously is!) there is never enough power for me to reset the unit.

The ONLY solution I see at this point is to…

a) physically open the iPad;

b) disconnect the battery from the circuit board;

c) recharge the battery while it is unconnected to the circuit board;

d) after battery is fully charged, rehook the circuit board to finally;

e) reset the iPad while the power level is high enough.

I have modified my eMac & iMacs in the past… opening an Apple product has seamingly becomed an overly complicated affair, yet it is not a problem when going logically about it with some degree of confidence and knowledge. So, my questions are as follows...

Q 1:

Did you ever came across someone who might have successfully done this ?

Q 2 :

Any recommendations before I get into doing this ?

ALSO :

While the iPad is opened and its guts are exposed, i'm seriously considering doing a Modification to allow an easy external battery and/or power supply alternative to be used with it (the access could be made with a simple multipin connector on the backside and well hidden when the iPad is placed inside a protective case (which is always the case with mine since I do not like the touch and feel of the iPad's aluminum case anyway!)

FYI: I could even place a simple switch to toggle from internal to external power supply while recharging the unit AND fooling the iPad into 'thinking' (sic) it is fully charged so that I can use the iPad's built-in multipin connector for my link to a computer or an Apogee guitar interface without draining the built-in original batteries…

Q 3:

Did you ever came across someone who might have successfully done this dual power feed system?

Q 4 :

Any recommendations before I get into doing this (besides patience and a few hours to spare)?

Truly looking forward to a reply.

Salutations,

Martin

PS I'm in no rush and will not operate on the iPad until mid march 2014 (i do like to think I have a life outsite of the iPad :)

I will inform you of any progress as I finally get to operate the thing.

Hello Dan and Jessa,

Thank you both for responding and bringing in more insights into the matter.

Also, thank you Jessa for your input about the Firmware update mode (DFU)… it did bring in a new set of considerations and a new development.

1) in using the iPad at home, unless it is badly connected - something too easy to do with the wide multipin connector-, it is always linked to the power supply (I use the one that came with the unit from Apple in 1 room & another one (a basic switching power supply from Digipower).

2) since the 40 inch long iPad cable Apple supplied when purchasing the unit is WAY TOO SHORT (!) for anything else but linking it to my computer or a recharger in the car, I did purchase a 10 foot High quality gold plated & shielded USB cable from Belkin to provide maneuvering space in using the iPad.

3) With or without the USB Extension cable inline between the power supply and the unit, the iPad has, from Day 1, always drained the internal battery faster than it can charge it IF the brightness is set at 100% (a maximum setting i only use when on the road since I use the iPad to link to my computer via Cellular network--- or make calls via Skype).

In other words, for the iPad to charge while being in use, it needs to have brightness set at about 3/4 brightness level or less.

That has been the case from day 1 (and yet another reason why I keep switching Cellular mode Off as well as Bluetooth Off in order to minimize power drain… Also I make sure the iPad's Camera app is OFF since the built-in camera drains power even if not in use If the Camera app is open in the background)

So…

Here is a new and interesting development :

I started the DFU operation and the loop reboot sequence has stopped! (Yea!)

When asked by iTunes if I wanted to restore (and lose all on the iPad AND Update to the latest iOS) I choose CANCEL and simply let iPad not looping and 'Off'. I then plugged the iPad in the Power Supply to recharge the internal battery… (Something I could not do until now due to the Reboot loop)

As I write these lines, I do not yet know if the unit is really charging or not.

I will provide a few hours of charging time before attempting to restart (reboot) the unit.

Hopefully by then, it will have sipped enough power to start without battery-induced failure and reboot loop

OR

it will at least have enough power for me to properly reset the unit should it go back into reboot loop while having enough power in the battery for me to take control of the unit.

To be continued…

Martin

PS I still use iOS 5.01 & keep saying no to updates. Every one I know who is using an older / lower CPU powered chip has complained about iOS7. I also have some Sweet apps that run Super well in iOS (& I do like the Google/Apple Map system ;)

IF all else fails, perhaps I will be forced to "upgrade to iOS7" ("sigh", but at least I will have a "New" iPad instead of a paperweight)

PPS I agree with you Dan, working with SMD parts is usually not for me either. Its not because I can do something that I want to do it… ;)

In recent past, I already have successfully fixed an ElGato video dongle, Twice, by simply de-casing the circuit and cooking it in the oven for 20 minutes… talk about low-tech success story!

Good news everyone :

I managed to have enough power to access the login keyboard display and get into the iPad’s iOS without a power crash and without being stuck with a reboot loop.

Interestingly enough, the unit was plugged in for over two hours but did not recharge… BUT, having the iPad on the corner of my desk below a opened window got the unit cold and that allowed the battery to regain its composure enough for a 2% mark… And since the aborted DFU operation of a few hours ago did get the loop reboot to stop, I managed to get back just enough power to regain control of the situation.

As I write these lines, the iPad (with display brightness a Minimum, no camera, no Bluetooth and the SIM card removed) is charging and already at 10% (within about 15 minutes).

So…

I will still investigate possible solution to not fall back to the mercy and whims of the iPad power management.

Also, a friend who is visiting mentioned that the release 7.0.4 of the iOS 7 is more efficient and works well. Again, I will have to spend time looking into the matter (since, besides the reboot loop adventure of this week, I am happy with my old iOS).

I will also soon do an impedance measurement of my USB extension cable.

As stated before, it is a high quality cable, yet, perhaps it is draining some juice a bit…

I will post an update on this matter after calculating the power difference (something I will do between now and march’s 2nd week-end…).

As always, I welcome comments and ideas and truly wish to say thank you to all that have contributed on this case.

Salutations,

Martin :)

⟐ Answered 2月 08, 2026 at 3:24 GMT-7

TL;DR: Found my old iPad, put it in charge and it didn't work, even with a different charger (waited for around 2 hours).

⟐ Answered 8月 28, 2022 at 16:32 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 12月 21, 2016 at 8:04 GMT-7

I keep it in a wraparound case and I noticed the left edge is starting to come unglued. Is this related? Can I fix this somehow, or do I need another digitizer?

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 28, 2019 at 6:46 GMT-7

I really don't care if this iPad is ever on 4G again, I just want it to work on wifi.

• I tried to downgrade the baseband firmware with redsn0w on the off chance that this isn't a physical chip problem but it says it doesn't work with iPad 3s. Is there any other software I should try?
• The next thing I plan to try is to reflow the baseband chip with a heat gun. Should I take the emi shielding off first? Will it matter if I can't get it back on? Any pointers for removing the shielding without damaging anything else?
• Has anyone had success removing resistor 1204 to get a wifi-only iPad? I'm skeptical of the success stories I've seen for this one, but if it works I'd be willing to try as a last resort.

⟐ Comment deleted 5月 21, 2020 at 3:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 6月 08, 2018 at 11:59 GMT-7

https://youtu.be/xx9VM6GMcnM

⟐ Answered 2月 25, 2018 at 12:25 GMT-7

I also have 2nd gen ipad can i use the battery on 2nd gen for the 3rd gen.will it work properly

⟐ Answered 8月 10, 2022 at 8:53 GMT-7

but for some reason its stuck on a apple screen rebooting and i tried so many method like pressing the home screen button and off button at the same time and did not work so can someone help me?

⟐ Commented 1月 21, 2022 at 19:23 GMT-7

Cheers in advance!

⟐ Answer accepted 11月 02, 2020 at 20:28 GMT-7

After replacing LCD and digitizer, iPad "won't boot" up. The device looks like dead (LCD and digitizer isn't working, no sound when connected to the power supply), but after connecting to a computer, I can still sync files and charge the battery. I tried to reset (buttons still works), restoring to factory settings etc., but nothing works. I remember, when the screen was plugged out, I felt a smell from the motherboard. Is it possible to burnt something?

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 18, 2020 at 17:50 GMT-7

When it came in, however, a DIFFERENT connector on it was missing. I can’t find any documentation on why or what the difference is. I went and looked at the photos of the second one I bought, and both connectors were in the photo, so I assume it’s a stock photo of the item. As such, I can’t trust any site I buy from to show the correct part.

Anyone have any ideas on this?

⟐ Answered 7月 11, 2020 at 16:25 GMT-7

I have come into possession of a series of old broken Apple products that my extended family has collected over the years. All the devices are non functional and aren’t recognized by my Mac when I plug them in. The devices are one iPad 3, two iPod touch 4 gens, two iPod touch 5 gens, and one iPhone 4s. This question is mainly about the iPad but I assume the question would apply for all of the devices listed. I’ve told said family members that I would dispose of the devices since I live near an e recycler. However since the devices won’t turn on for me there’s no way to tell if they’ve been properly wiped. I would assume that simply removing and destroying the logic boards of the device would be sufficient to ensure all personal data. However in all devices the battery makes up almost all of the interior and I just want to make sure that all data is on the logic board NAND chips located on the logic board and not hidden away in any other part of the device. Any advice would be appreciated as I feel responsible for the security of the devices and want to do right by my fam.

⟐ Commented 6月 02, 2020 at 14:13 GMT-7

I need to replace the battery in my iPod Gen3, and so I need to purchase a battery kit.

I’m in the UK, but their website doesn’t list a gen3 battery kit, and if I try the European website, they have a gen3 kit, but there is no option to send to a UK address.

Does anyone know how I can purchase this kit?

Thanks, Peter

Alan, I’m really sorry - I made a mistake in the original question. I should have said it’s an iPad Gen3, not an iPod.

⟐ Edited by author 5月 17, 2020 at 9:20 GMT-7

1. Not sure if its the battery, but after i get it out from the old one there was smell of UHU glue. (did i puncture the battery ?)

2. Its still working until i stack books up the ipad as i dont have a heat gun to stick the screen back. After i removed the book, it wont start up. (did i broke the lcd ?)

⟐ Answer accepted 11月 02, 2019 at 17:35 GMT-7

Attached is an image of the screen. If it is a damaged connector is that an easy fix? Thank you all for your help.

⟐ Edited by author 6月 30, 2019 at 10:44 GMT-7