I'm always coming across those hard to reach screws in skinny plastic holes and need an extended asap.

So, I figured the battery must be dead. However, when the device is plugged into power it shows that the battery is full and my charger shows no power draw. It does not display an error message while plugged into a charger.

I found the support article indicating this may be a firmware issue with available hotfix. I plugged into my PC and immediately received the error "Battery Error, Tool Shutdown" I didn't see this one listed in the error code list, which is strange.

I was able to hold down the wheel while plugging in, and was able to update firmware successfully to 1.5.0. No change. Unable to start device; receive error when plugged into a PC. I also successfully updated to 1.3.2 after seeing another forum post regarding the boot loop issues in 1.4.0, but no dice. I've also tried 1.4.1 after seeing there was a hotfix for that issue.

After updating to 1.3.2, it did flash a different error for a moment, but changed back to "Battery Error - Tool Shutdown" before I could read it. I've since updated the firmware back to 1.5.0.

The FixHub updater recognizes the device when it's plugged into my PC and shows 100% charge (sometimes starts at 107% or 51% before correcting to 100%) and accurately reflects the current firmware version in the webapp.

The only other information I can give that's interesting - when updating firmware it will reset, show the full battery, then display the error message on screen while the firmware is still updating.

Got any ideas for a fix? I'd love to use this thing!

⟐ Answer accepted April 16, 2026 at 21:25 GMT-7

⟐ Answered April 16, 2026 at 11:25 GMT-7

The belt snapped the drive belt on my Craftsman Riding Mower 917.987140 46" automatic, Well, When i installed the new belt, It is still loose and i have done what it looks like in th eowners manual, If anyone can help it would be very helpful, If i can get a actual picture that would be even better. Thanks, Email icitrish@aol.com

⟐ Commented April 16, 2026 at 10:38 GMT-7

⟐ Commented April 16, 2026 at 10:37 GMT-7

Technical Specs:

- Core: 12 slots, 24 commutator bars.

- Dimensions: Core length 55mm, diameter 3.2cm.

- Wire: 32 AWG (0.20mm).

- Winding: Factory was 22 turns/coil (88 wires/slot total), but I plan to use 23 turns/coil (92 wires/slot) to improve torque and heat management.

- Pitch: 1 to 6.

- Progression: Retrogressive (1 -> 24 -> 23).

- Brushes: Positioned 90 degrees from the stator coils.

- Potting: Using two-part submersible pump epoxy (thinned with heat) in a vertical gravity-pour method.

The specific question is about the Lead Shift:

Because I am adding an extra turn (23 instead of 22) and the brushes are at 90 degrees, which lead shift is best to handle the high RPM and field twist?

1. Zero Shift (Bar 1 directly in center of Slot 1).

2. 7.5 Degree Shift (Mica directly in center of Slot 1).

3. 15 Degree Shift (Bar 24, one bar left, in center of Slot 1).

I am leaning toward the 7.5° (Mica Center) shift as a balance, but I'm worried about "fire-ringing" at 11,000 RPM. Has anyone done this specific 23-turn mod on these 12/24 armatures?

By ibot guess, the magnetic shift will ne around 18degree. I can't retrieve any original data of lead shift but from one saved coil, i get continuity from bar24 and 23, assuming first bar in center of slot is bar 1 and winding is retrogressive, connections moving left.

I have already tried:

1. Performing a force shutdown (holding the Action Button for 10 seconds).

2. Attempting to update multiple times via the Web Console.

The error persists every time I power the device back on. Does anyone have any ideas?

⟐ Commented April 14, 2026 at 14:38 GMT-7

Based on other people's problems I suspect it's the switch that's failed but I'm not sure I'm testing it properly. I've got continuity in some bits but not others but I don't know if that's because it's faulty or because I'm doing it wrong. Can anyone talk me through how to test the switch correctly and what reading I should expect? Should I be getting 0 resistance or is a certain level ok? Just want to make absolutely sure it is the switch before I buy a new one.

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 13:02 GMT-7

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 11:02 GMT-7

⟐ Commented April 13, 2026 at 18:55 GMT-7

Symptoms:

- While heating, the error flashes for ~1 second, the temperature display drops a few degrees, then heating resumes. This cycles repeatedly.

- Using firmware 1.5.0 on both Hub and Iron.

- Tip is a 1.5 Bevel.

Troubleshooting already performed:

- Verified tip is fully seated (clicked in, aligned below the surface).

- Cleaned 3.5mm contacts and internal handle springs with IPA.

- Disassembled the iron handle; internal soldering points for the socket are secure and show no signs of failure.

- Measured tip resistance at ~3 ohms at room temperature.

- Tested both front USB-C ports with the original cable (same result).

- Tested with third-party 100W cables (MacBook/IKEA), which resulted in Error #11 (No Data), confirming the hub requires the specific data lines of the original cable.

The intermittent nature suggests a thermal expansion break inside the tip's sensor circuit. Are there any known issues with this behavior or specific tests I can run to verify if it's the tip vs. the iron handle's internal logic?

⟐ Answered April 13, 2026 at 10:59 GMT-7