⟐ Edited 三月 07, 2026 at 23:43 GMT-7

here is my youtube on this topic.

however i am interested in anyone who has fixed this issue.

I believe i have some remaining leakage around the door.

i wanted to do a vid on how i put a huge piece of aluminum foil up infront of the microwave to deflect the RF and my device connections to my router stayed up and connected. We all know that is not a permanant fix so any ideas? all im looking for is a way to break up the emissions/deflect them. I am pretty sure its not the door glass Screen but i have not experimented on adding another screen to the "outside of the glass which i can.

thoughts?

Here is a vid of what i am talking about that i did up ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTp0lboC...

⟐ Edited 二月 28, 2026 at 1:10 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 二月 26, 2026 at 17:04 GMT-7

I am wondering if anyone has experienced this kind of failure before and have any suggestions on what could be the root cause.

⟐ Commented 二月 25, 2026 at 10:09 GMT-7

Hello, new here, i have several vids on the above microwave on how to repair on my youtube called I Fix It All,, but i am stumped.

this is me... https://www.youtube.com/@ifixitall-24-7

Since i am fairly savvy to repairs, one part of this microwave is bugging me. What i want to do is change the default power level from PL-10 to PL-8. reason being is that this will lengthen the life of components / wear and tear. I am not very impressed at all with the airflow pattern the squirril cage fan provides so maybe one day i will add a fan that blows directly on my tranformer to help cool it off. this would have to be custom engineered though becuase any new airflow might negatively effect the oem placed limit / thermal switches which could be a bad idea.

I notice that the transformer is online for a tremendous amount of time before it cycles off and then back on. yet if i set the power level lower while in use i can hear the magnetic field making and breaking over the course of a heating cycle.

the primary purpose is this,,

If i use my microwave,, i want to run a lower power level by default but if i happen to "KNOW" i want to throw max power at an item, i will decide to up it to PL-10.

Ive just replaced my transformer and i have been through 2 caps so far since i got it in 07 at lowes. stand by,, gonna post another interesting topic but lets see who has cracked the oem code for the default power setting.

by the way,, there was NO accurate schematic for this model until i discovered the orig schematic was rolled up into the plastic keypad cover. I un rolled it, ironed it out and placed it in a different area for use later in a container i installed inside the mic with spare parts like micro-switches, diodes, limit switches etc. Im glad i found it because all the online diagrams were not matching my unit.

⟐ Edited by author 二月 24, 2026 at 20:07 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 二月 24, 2026 at 19:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 二月 24, 2026 at 19:47 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 二月 19, 2026 at 9:48 GMT-7

Is there a brightness control anywhere? Or do we need to replace the display?

⟐ Answer accepted 二月 06, 2026 at 6:04 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 二月 03, 2026 at 13:36 GMT-7

I have a Whirlpool 1.7 wmh73l20as, It has power and doesnt show any errors on the touch panel. Every time I press the start button, the microwave switches on momentarily (less than a second) and just shuts down again and again. Any help in diagnosing the issue and potential solution will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented 二月 03, 2026 at 10:17 GMT-7

Any suggestions?

⟐ Commented 二月 03, 2026 at 6:43 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 二月 02, 2026 at 18:19 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 二月 01, 2026 at 13:33 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 一月 22, 2026 at 8:44 GMT-7

I've been using this microwave for around a year without any issues. This started happening in the past few days. The breaker is a 20A breaker, which I think is shared between the fridge, stove, and microwave. Again, this worked for about a year without issues. The microwave alone pulls 12A.

I used my multimeter's continuity test, and confirmed that both thermostats and all 3 door switches are working. The only thing that didn't pass the continuity test is the lamp unit (Light Bulb). The lamp unit has 66 ohms of resistance. However, the light turns on every time I open the door. The internal fuse also has continuity, here's a picture of it.

While keeping the fridge and stove operating, I also plugged a kettle into the same outlet, which didn't trip the breaker. The kettle draws around 9A.

I tried finding parts diagrams or wiring schematics, but can't find any. If anyone got any insight on this, that'd be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Answer edited 一月 13, 2026 at 21:42 GMT-7

and how to fix it?

⟐ Edited 一月 21, 2026 at 17:56 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 一月 05, 2026 at 20:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 一月 03, 2026 at 0:34 GMT-7