I'm assuming that I did not reconnect one of the cables properly on reassembly, so will be opening it back up, and it would be helpful if I had a sense of which cable to look at when I had it open, as the prior teardown was extensive, delicate, and time-consuming.

I used three different teardown guides as there isn't one specifically for this model (1st Gen M1 13" MBP, late 2020). The main teardown guide I used is this: MacBook Pro 13" Two Thunderbolt Ports 2020 Touchbar Removal

Unfortunately not every cable connection is identified.

Is there a map of the internal [microphone] connections available for this (or similar) Macbook Pros?

⟐ Answered aprile 19, 2026 at 19:19 GMT-7

I have a problem with a Macbook Pro Mid-2012 (A1278). When I turn it on, the fan immediately starts spinning at maximum speed. When it gets to the login screen, I log in, and after two seconds of loading it shuts down. I've already tried to reset SMC and PRAM, but that didn't help.

My guess would be that it is a thermal sensor not working properly? Does anyone know were the thermal sensor is located? Or any other ideas?

Thanks!

Thanks a lot for your help so far.

I did a quick inspection on the pins and also the logic board, from what I can see and judge, it doesn't look too bad.

Here are some photos:

I will try to also find someone with the same charger. Although the charger seems to be in quite ok condition and I think is replaced at some point. The only thing I can see is that the chord is slightly squeezed at the top, but I don't think enough to not make it work properly.

⟐ Answered aprile 18, 2026 at 23:26 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 17, 2026 at 17:20 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 17, 2026 at 16:02 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 17, 2026 at 7:49 GMT-7

It is possible to enter Internet recovery mode, startup disk selection mode, Apple Diagnostics by using Startup key combinations.

But when I try to load recovery disk or MacOS boot disk(which show apple logo), it just boot loop.

I tried resetting SMC/NVRAM and it did nothing.

What's happening on my Macbook? I have no idea.

⟐ Answered aprile 16, 2026 at 10:41 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 15, 2026 at 13:08 GMT-7

⟐ Answered aprile 14, 2026 at 19:18 GMT-7

It seems completely dead, no sign of life.

The Magsafe led is briefly green, then stays orange.

The light is also orange if I unplug the battery from the logic board.

The battery was replaced by a repair place a few years ago.(non oem replacement)

There is no sign of corrosion/moisture ingress.

One of the sections of battery has inflated quite a bit and a couple other sections inflated a tiny bit.

I have tried unplugging the battery and MagSafe then holding the power button for over 15 seconds. But this made no difference.

With the battery plugged back in and the MagSafe plugged back in (and orange) I've tried the SMC reset (shift control option Power 10') and when released the MagSafe does go Green briefly and then goes back to Orange.

It seems pretty obvious that I need to change the battery but before I spend £80 on such an old laptop I wondered if there's any way to diagnose this further in case there's some other problem. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare charger to test.

Much thanks in advance.

⟐ Answered aprile 14, 2026 at 17:38 GMT-7

After work (about 5 hours later) I found the keyboard keys weren't working right (no response to occasional response from enter, spacebar and delete keys, and one of the directional keys seemed to be constantly active - computer making bumping sound like incorrect key pressed), so I powered the laptop off and opened up the back to see if there was any liquid inside. The machine was bone dry inside, dust undisturbed with the only oddity being a slight coffee smell coming from the optical drive corner (drive was a little hesitant to release disk inside - took 2 tries to eject disk), but no smell anywhere else. Left the computer upside down for about a day to dry out some more (powered off) and popped off and cleaned the keys that weren't working with a damp cloth (water - dried thoroughly before popping back in place).

Powered the laptop on the next day and everything works except the keyboard. No response at all from any key, and the backlight only appears to be working in the very center of the board. However the computer does not sound as if it's working too hard, no overpowered fan noise, just operating normally. Currently is powered off and upside down with a small cooling fan on the keys.

Tried further drying by setting rice over the keys for a few hours, which was a mistake. Took a few hours to get the rice out that had seeped to the internals of the machine. I think there is still a rice piece stuck under the optical drive, but don't have the correct tools to pry it out yet.

Recently ordered a torc screwdriver to see if I can clean off the drive with some isopropanol, but not sure if I should replace the keyboard or not. Is there a way to fix it without replacing the whole thing? Would cleaning it with isopropanol as well help it? Should I try to clean everything since rice did get inside the machine?

My last attempt to turn my mac on left me a little fearful as the keys began to respond again, but not in the way they should have (pressed delete and got a letter on screen). It also befuddled me that my login screen popped up, when I have always had my mac set up to go directly to my home screen without a forced login. It had never acted up like that before, so I actually ended up taking it into the Geek Squad and am glad I did. It needed not only a new keyboard, but a new power button (which made sense to me as the power button was very hesitant to respond) and hard drive! Just lucky that I backed up my important files before sending it off! Expensive lesson, and I now have my mac ensured for any future problems. Thanks so much for your input!

⟐ Edited by author aprile 14, 2026 at 9:51 GMT-7

I'm not sure what just happened.

I cleaned my screen with a tiny bit of water, but I guess there might have been a bit too much. I guess I was pressing down on the cloth to get rid of something in the corner. I've done this many times before without issue, but now there is a huge light blotch in the left corner of my screen. There is an odd rectangular shape near the bottom too that doesn't make much sense. Take a look at this image of a completely white window:

https://i.imgur.com/fp4G5IY.jpg

I've read that the classic rice method, and or heating the computer up for a long period of time might help it dry, but I'm not entirely sure it's only water that's the problem.

Anyways, hoping someone can help me understand the damage I've done and what I might be able to do, other than paying for a replacement :D. Thanks.

Time seems to have healed all wounds.

I ran the computer hot with a 'while true' loop for a couple hours and it burned most of the water off, and what was left is slowly disappearing.

⟐ Commented aprile 14, 2026 at 8:46 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited aprile 14, 2026 at 8:38 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 13, 2026 at 16:54 GMT-7

I have MacBook Pro M4 A3112.(Nov'24). this is my first Macbook.

Initially display screen had some damage, so got the screen replaced and i notice both Wifi and Bluetooth has stopped working.

I took back to the repair guy who helped to replace the screen, but he has no clue why Wifi and Bluetooth are not working.

please find the attached the screenshots and photos I took as part of initial diagnosis I could do.

Please advise, what could be the issue and how to resolve this ?

Thanks

RB

Hi @danj

I did reformat whole Macbook and reinstalled OS. Seems issue still persists.

I connected the MacBook to my router using Rj45 cable with the help of connector so I can access wired network connection to internet.

However I tried to do offline diagnostic and I got the error CNW001 . Have attached screenshot.

Power charger wasn't connected to macbook when I ran the diagnostic so the error PPP020 can be ignored in the image here, as I see the MacBook is working fine when charger is connected.

Let me know what option i have to resolve this CNW001 error.

I am using wired connection for Internet for now, not a substantial solution.

Thanks

RB

I used an Ethernet cable and was able to connect to internet.

The pic was taken with ethernet cable on !

⟐ Answered aprile 10, 2026 at 23:09 GMT-7

I researched a lot online and did the following:

• Disabled Energy Saver - Automatic Graphics Switching on both Battery and Power Adapter mode
• Disabled Spotlight indexing for specific types of content and also added folders like “/System” in the Privacy settings
• Reset the System Management Controller (SMC)
• Performed the Apple Diagnostics test (ADT - some older websites called it the Apple Hardware Test - AHT) and had no issues come from that.
• I also use Google Drive’s “Backup and Sync” and do lots of web development with `node_modules` folders, that can have 10s of thousands of small files which I think results in CPU churn. I’ve disabled it now.
• Shut down the computer and turned it back on. Still get same issues with the external monitor.

Now with no external monitor plugged in, every once and a while the kernel_task rises up to 300% and sometimes rarely to 500%. I’m curious if it is a software thing or a hardware thing. To me it seems more like a software thing.

I use VS Code for programming which can have a lot of background tasks, same with using node/npm which can probably be doing lots in the background. I also run iStat v6.30, and sadly I have only 21 GB of free space on my HDD (out of 500 GB…). Often I also have Slack open, and I know that’s a web app using Electron to run as a desktop application, which can be notorious for performance.

Often the fans can run high as well. I often suspect it is either due to the VS Code/npm/node/Slack thing, or kernel_task, or maybe something else I’m unaware about.

When checking memory usage via iStat, I can see that kernel_task is using 1.61 GB (oof, Firefox is using 6.36 GB).

Things I haven’t tried yet:

• Cleaning out more free space from HDD
• Using plain HDMI cable into the HDMI cable port
• Taking MBP apart and cleaning any potential dust

Has anyone had similar experience with this issue and how to address it?

OS: 10.13.6

Processor: 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7

Memory: 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3

Graphics: AMD Radeon R9 M370X 2048 MB, Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB

⟐ Commented aprile 10, 2026 at 3:05 GMT-7

Recently bought an early 2015 MacBook Pro 13" which had light water damage.

Opened it up and gave it a quick clean (rice everywhere...)

Only problem I can see is the MacBook can see the battery but wont charge and says it needs replacing (only 17 cycles)

The MacBook only works when connected to the charger.

Now I have a 2014 MacBook Pro 13" which functions normally.

Can I plug that battery into the 2015 model to test that it definitely is a problem with the battery before buying a replacement?

Don't want to waste money buying a replacement battery if that wont fix the issue.

Cheers!

*Update*

Info from coconutBattery

⟐ Commented aprile 10, 2026 at 2:55 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 08, 2026 at 1:12 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 07, 2026 at 19:53 GMT-7

I never tried this method yet just wondering if there is another method possible, the system is running nice and smooth apart from this 'issue'. It seems that I will need to do a clean install again to resolve this. @danj Any Idea on how to 'resolve this'?

UPDATE 06/04/26 I booted externally into Catalina & then Monterey (Internally & Externally). I Clean installed Catalina externally & booted. I used OCLP to install Sequoia but STILL we have the firmware update which does not install. I guess we have to wipe the SSD (Original 512 GB SSD from the unit) which is still installed, and clean install either El Capitan or Monterey to see if that clears the issue.

⟐ Edited by author aprile 06, 2026 at 18:40 GMT-7

The battery icon in the menu bar says 'Service Recommended' and shows 0% even after charging overnight.

What I’ve checked so far:

*The MagSafe light stays orange.

*I performed an SMC reset, but it didn't change the status.

*I checked the cycle count in System Report, and it's at 950 cycles.

Is it definitely time for a battery replacement, or could this be an issue with the DC-In board or the logic board charging circuit?

If I replace the battery, are there any specific tips for removing the adhesive safely?

Thanks!"

⟐ Edited aprile 06, 2026 at 14:32 GMT-7