⟐ Answer edited Juni 26, 2026 at 18:05 GMT-7

I’m hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a serious issue.

About a week ago, I purchased a complete display assembly from iFixit for my 16-inch MacBook Pro (Late 2023) and followed the repair guide to replace the screen. The repair appeared to be successful. The MacBook powered on normally and I used it daily for about a week without any problems.

This morning, I initiated a macOS Tahoe update. During or after the update process, the computer became completely unresponsive.

Current symptoms:

• No signs of life at all.
• Screen remains black.
• No startup chime.
• No keyboard backlight.
• No response when opening the lid.
• No response when holding the power button for 10+ seconds.
• No visible indication that the machine is charging.

My biggest concern is that I do not have a recent backup of my data.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced a MacBook Pro becoming completely unresponsive after a macOS Tahoe update?
2. Could this be related to the display assembly replacement, even though the computer worked perfectly for a week afterward?
3. Are there any recovery steps I should try before opening the machine again?
4. Is there a way to revive the system using DFU Restore or DFU Revive, and if so, would that preserve my data?
5. If the logic board has failed, what are my options for recovering the data stored on the internal SSD?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to avoid making the situation worse and would like to preserve my data if possible.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented Juni 26, 2026 at 14:22 GMT-7

I recently picked up a 2009 MacBook Pro 15”. El Capitan is telling me to replace the battery now. Although the battery is at 100 percent and only has 257 cycles on it. Is it really a battery issue for why the MacBook is shutting down after a few seconds (sometimes minutes) without it plugged in? Or is it something else? I also gave a third party application saying that the battery has about 4 minutes left(and going up for some reason), 10.8 years old, the original max is 6500 mAH, the current max is 65035 mAH, and the current charge is 65035 mAH. This app has never done this for me, so I’m not sure what’s wrong.

⟐ Answered Juni 26, 2026 at 7:07 GMT-7

I have a MacBook Pro 14-inch 2021 (A2442, M1 Pro) and I want to improve cooling with the easiest/safest method possible.

I don’t want to do a full logic board removal right now if I can avoid it. I’m planning the “add thermal pads” mod — placing high-conductivity thermal pads on top of the metal heatsink/radiator so heat transfers better to the aluminum bottom case (turning the whole bottom into an extra passive heatsink).

I’ve watched some of Your videos and others but there is not a video for my question (what i want).

My questions:

1.  For the easier bottom-case-only version, is 1.5mm or 2mm thick high W/mK pads (Thermalright / Gelid / Arctic style) the best choice? What size sheet should I get and where exactly on the heatsink should I place the pieces?

2.  I will leave Apple’s original grey paste on the main SoC and the black thermal gel (TCRS Carbon Black) on the RAM chips completely alone. I dont wanna touch them i want to add more too cool it down.

4.  What kind of real-world gains have people seen on the 14” M1 Pro specifically (temps, fan noise, sustained performance)?

5.  If the pad mod isn’t enough later, is the full heat sink replacement guide the right next step, and do you recommend Noctua NT-H2 or Arctic MX-6?

I will make pictures when i do this and share it with you here so people to know excactly what to do.

I want to share my exp. With the chat bot i think i have all answers to my questions i have what i need but you people can read as well and maybe my questions can help.

This is a conversation with AI asking question of how to apply thermal pads with Pics. And extra questions.

Venelin Valkanov

https://fixbot.ifixit.com/chat/f9a4e89e-...

Any ideas?

⟐ Answered Juni 25, 2026 at 6:30 GMT-7

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Answer accepted Juni 22, 2026 at 7:01 GMT-7

The issue:

1. With the new battery, the MagSafe light stays green. System Information sees the battery at 33% (2308mAh) but shows 0 Amperage and "Not Charging."

2. If I unplug the MagSafe, the laptop immediately shuts off.

3. I reinstalled the old (bulging) battery to test. It shows 100% (4322mAh) and "Fully Charged," but the laptop still shuts off immediately if the power cord is disconnected.

4. CRITICAL FINDING: The battery indicator button (on the left side) ONLY works when the MagSafe is plugged in. When plugged in, it shows 3 LEDs (consistent with 33%). When unplugged, the indicator button does nothing.

5. I have already:

- Reset the SMC and NVRAM/PRAM multiple times.

- Verified I am using an 85W MagSafe adapter.

- Reseated the battery connector and inspected the logic board pins.

- Ran Disk Utility First Aid.

Is it possible the original bulging battery blew a current-sensing resistor or a MOSFET on the logic board? What specific components should I test with a multimeter to diagnose why the battery rail is not being energized?

Here is an image (maybe) of the coconut app and the system report.

Here is an image of the system report with the bad battery

=== ===

⟐ Answered Juni 19, 2026 at 18:50 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Juni 19, 2026 at 13:15 GMT-7

I have some display assembly's here that are not labeled for which model they were from ...... is there a small marking on the hinges or something that I can go by to ID which is which? There are no stickers or numbers I can cross check present. I am fearful to just try them on different models and see what works in case their incompatibility will cause some harm..... I cannot find any part numbers anywhere. Late 2013 and Mid 2014 displays (661-8153, 2015 is (661-02360). Under the clutch cover and removing the antenna, still there is nothing that I see that is recognizable in google to suggest a model year.... stumped.

⟐ Commented Juni 19, 2026 at 7:45 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Juni 19, 2026 at 6:13 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Juni 19, 2026 at 4:36 GMT-7

Thank you very much.

⟐ Commented Juni 19, 2026 at 4:26 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Juni 18, 2026 at 6:57 GMT-7

TIA

⟐ Answered Juni 17, 2026 at 16:05 GMT-7

Here's what's going on:

I have an A1226 15" MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button--none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.

I've read about the nVIDIA 8600GT issue, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the 'Left I/O' board', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?

Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green--whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge.

⟐ Commented Juni 17, 2026 at 15:16 GMT-7

I am getting video as I can put a flashlight behind the screen and actually see the boot processing, same thing with an external display.

I read a bit on the backlight fuse and the driver chip too but cant seem to find some images on internet for my specific model.

I took a picture of my bord near the video connector to show you guys where I think my fuse is (the one with a little P on it) and how can I check if its the fuse or the driver...

Thanks

Mickael

⟐ Commented Juni 17, 2026 at 5:31 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Juni 11, 2026 at 15:46 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Juni 11, 2026 at 14:55 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Juni 11, 2026 at 8:23 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Juni 11, 2026 at 5:16 GMT-7

- To make sure it is no virus I plugged in a usb mouse which switches of the trackpad.

- According to a lot of forums I had to reset the PRAM/NVRAM, like explained here: http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14222?view...

- I removed the battery to see if it was swollen. I also tested the mbp without the battery in the body to make sure it was not the battery who caused the problem.

- I removed the trackpad and cleaned it with alcohol.

Nothing helped! What is the next step? The strange thing is that after a PRAM reset the mouse will act normal for about 30 minutes. Then the problem starts acting up again.

Any ideas?

⟐ Commented Juni 11, 2026 at 3:04 GMT-7