⟐ Commented July 07, 2026 at 19:34 MST

⟐ Answered July 07, 2026 at 6:23 MST

⟐ Commented July 07, 2026 at 2:40 MST

About a week ago these visual issues have started, which I have assumed were linked to the flex cable that goes into the display assembly itself, making it impossible to fix.

The issue is triggered either by pressing the plastic bottom bezel at the left corner, or by moving the orientation of the screen.

I put my laptop for sale on a local marketplace, and someone called today saying the same happened to his 16" M1 Pro. He told me a repair shop has successfully repaired it by replacing a ribbon cable hidden behind the said plastic bezel strip, and the repair cost him very little money.

Does anyone have any idea about what exactly could've went bad so I can explain it to technicians that would attempt a repair for the laptop?

So far, I've just been quoted a full display assembly replacement costing from 800 to 1000€, which isn't an option. Thanks

- Hard to see on camera, but that region of the chin bezel > display seems to have kind of a bloated/warping effect.

⟐ Answer accepted July 06, 2026 at 15:05 MST

This is how it looks

⟐ Commented July 06, 2026 at 13:05 MST

video of issue

Screen

Display cables

Or logic board issues

⟐ Commented July 06, 2026 at 9:02 MST

⟐ Answered July 04, 2026 at 17:11 MST

⟐ Commented July 04, 2026 at 2:46 MST

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 14:53 MST

I replaced the battery in my Late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” (A1398, logic board 820-3662-A) using the iFixit guide, which required removing the logic board.

While removing the heat sink, three of the four threaded mounting bosses separated from the logic board and remained attached to the heat sink. The heat sink screws were extremely tight, but I did not use excessive force or power tools.

Photos are attached showing:

• the detached mounting bosses still attached to the heat sink,

• the corresponding locations on the logic board,

• and the overall board.

The board itself does not appear to have torn fiberglass or obvious PCB damage.

The Mac now powers on and reaches the macOS login screen, but after several seconds the fans ramp up steadily and the machine shuts off. Before concluding that this is a thermal issue, I’d like to understand the mechanical failure.

My questions are:

1. On the 820-3662-A board, how are these heat sink mounting bosses originally attached?

2. Is this a known failure mode, or does it suggest the machine was previously repaired?

3. Can the bosses be properly reattached, and if so, what is the correct repair method?

4. If they cannot be repaired reliably, what is the recommended solution?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with board-level repair experience on this specific model.

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 6:25 MST

Mac was inside of suitcase and it was inside of a bag.

Mac boots up,I can hear the chime,but the screen is totally black,not even “light” black. Caps lock light doesn’t work.

I tried SMC,PRAM reset, didn’t work.

Reconnecting screen display by unplugging those two things didn’t work. I used this video

Reconnecting battery didn’t work.

I also tried SMC,PRAM reset while the battery was disconnected and Mac was getting energy from the charger. Didn’t work. I used that video.

What else can I do before changing the screen?I don’t want to swap screen cause it’s expensive.

⟐ Commented July 01, 2026 at 22:25 MST

These Macbooks are now around 4-5 years so it's not a bad idea to replace the thermal paste.

They're not obsolute so there will still be users who can benefit from a guide.

Update:

So I was able to open the MacBook and disassemble the motherboard with the video.

Since I'm comfortable around electronics (this isn't my first time opening up a MacBook, laptop, or even a smartphone), I did choose to replace the thermal paste on the cpu and gpu.

And honestly, after four years of service... Kind of disappointed about the original paste. Dan said that paste will last longer now due to improvements, but the original paste was crumbly as hell. Furthermore I noticed small blank spots on the cpu and it's heatsink, so not very good spread. The gpu did have a good spread. They definitely were generous with the paste on the gpu, because its surroundings were covered with paste too.

Cleaning wasn't difficult, as I said the paste was in a very crumbly state.

After cleaning I gave the copper plates of the heatsink and the cpu and gpu some time to evaporate the alcohol.

I used Noctua NT-H2 and used the "X" to spread the paste on both cpu and gpu.

The only annoying experience was to place back the motherboard in the case. I needed multiple attempts because there was always some small connector/ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Ugh! After playing like an octopus for a while, I was able to place the motherboard back and with all connectors/ribbon cables out on top of it.

It's do-able but only for people who have a steady hand and... most of all... lots and lots of patience. Take your time. Take some breaks if you get tired or frustrated because the moment that you attempt to work a bit faster or anything like that... something will go wrong. I 100% guarantee that.

I made only one mistake. The connector cable from the left fan is incredibely fragile due to its L-shape (that's what I think). In trying to get the L-shape cable from underneath the board to the top on the board, I got a small tear in the ribbon cable. This fan no longer works. We learn from our mistakes. Should've taped the connector on top of the fan, I wouldn't had an issue to "fish" for the cable since it can't get trapped underneath the board that way. Already ordered a replacement fan.

The temperatures are amazing though. In idle I went from 60-63° to 46-51°. The one remaining fan is also a lot quieter. I'm not going to claim this huge difference to the new paste though. There was so much built up dust in the MacBook... I was genuinely surprised that the MacBook didn't have much higher temps in idle. Both fans were completly covered up in thick dust, and the outlets on both fans same thing. How it managed to get some kind of airflow through those thick dust is a mystery to me.

Anyway, I am very happy with the result. Yes, I did damage one fan connector, but one can only learn with making mishaps.

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 9:51 MST

I’m looking for recommendations for good Apple repair shops experienced in microsoldering on Mac Book Pro logic boards.

⟐ Commented June 29, 2026 at 5:05 MST

I’m looking for some help with a MacBook Pro 13” Retina (2017, Touch Bar model).

I recently replaced the battery. The replacement went smoothly, and after reconnecting everything and checking the connections multiple times, the MacBook powers on normally and correctly recognizes the new battery.

However, since the battery replacement, I’ve been experiencing the following issues:

• The keyboard does not work at all.
• The trackpad does not work and does not physically click (it feels completely locked).
• The right cooling fan does not appear to work properly.
• On every startup, the left fan immediately ramps up to a very high speed and keeps spinning loudly, regardless of system load.

The MacBook itself boots and operates normally with an external keyboard and mouse, and the battery is detected correctly by macOS.

I’ve already reopened the MacBook and checked the battery and flex cable connections, but I haven’t found anything obviously disconnected or damaged.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a battery replacement? Could this be related to the trackpad flex cable, keyboard/trackpad connector, fan connector, or perhaps a sensor that is no longer being detected?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered June 28, 2026 at 16:21 MST

⟐ Commented June 28, 2026 at 13:44 MST

⟐ Commented June 27, 2026 at 19:06 MST

⟐ Answered June 27, 2026 at 13:24 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 26, 2026 at 18:05 MST

I’m hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a serious issue.

About a week ago, I purchased a complete display assembly from iFixit for my 16-inch MacBook Pro (Late 2023) and followed the repair guide to replace the screen. The repair appeared to be successful. The MacBook powered on normally and I used it daily for about a week without any problems.

This morning, I initiated a macOS Tahoe update. During or after the update process, the computer became completely unresponsive.

Current symptoms:

• No signs of life at all.
• Screen remains black.
• No startup chime.
• No keyboard backlight.
• No response when opening the lid.
• No response when holding the power button for 10+ seconds.
• No visible indication that the machine is charging.

My biggest concern is that I do not have a recent backup of my data.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced a MacBook Pro becoming completely unresponsive after a macOS Tahoe update?
2. Could this be related to the display assembly replacement, even though the computer worked perfectly for a week afterward?
3. Are there any recovery steps I should try before opening the machine again?
4. Is there a way to revive the system using DFU Restore or DFU Revive, and if so, would that preserve my data?
5. If the logic board has failed, what are my options for recovering the data stored on the internal SSD?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to avoid making the situation worse and would like to preserve my data if possible.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented June 26, 2026 at 14:22 MST

I recently picked up a 2009 MacBook Pro 15”. El Capitan is telling me to replace the battery now. Although the battery is at 100 percent and only has 257 cycles on it. Is it really a battery issue for why the MacBook is shutting down after a few seconds (sometimes minutes) without it plugged in? Or is it something else? I also gave a third party application saying that the battery has about 4 minutes left(and going up for some reason), 10.8 years old, the original max is 6500 mAH, the current max is 65035 mAH, and the current charge is 65035 mAH. This app has never done this for me, so I’m not sure what’s wrong.

⟐ Answered June 26, 2026 at 7:07 MST