⟐ Edited by author 6月 29, 2026 at 11:46 GMT-7

I’m looking for recommendations for good Apple repair shops experienced in microsoldering on Mac Book Pro logic boards.

⟐ Commented 6月 29, 2026 at 5:05 GMT-7

Looking for the logic board of M5884 (400MHz) model

寻找可以购买M5884（400MHz）的链接，或者是一台可以用来拆配件的机器

Looking for a link to buy M5884 (400MHz), or a machine that can be used to disassemble accessories.

⟐ Answer edited 6月 29, 2026 at 3:50 GMT-7

I replaced the battery in my Late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” (A1398, logic board 820-3662-A) using the iFixit guide, which required removing the logic board.

While removing the heat sink, three of the four threaded mounting bosses separated from the logic board and remained attached to the heat sink. The heat sink screws were extremely tight, but I did not use excessive force or power tools.

Photos are attached showing:

• the detached mounting bosses still attached to the heat sink,

• the corresponding locations on the logic board,

• and the overall board.

The board itself does not appear to have torn fiberglass or obvious PCB damage.

The Mac now powers on and reaches the macOS login screen, but after several seconds the fans ramp up steadily and the machine shuts off. Before concluding that this is a thermal issue, I’d like to understand the mechanical failure.

My questions are:

1. On the 820-3662-A board, how are these heat sink mounting bosses originally attached?

2. Is this a known failure mode, or does it suggest the machine was previously repaired?

3. Can the bosses be properly reattached, and if so, what is the correct repair method?

4. If they cannot be repaired reliably, what is the recommended solution?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with board-level repair experience on this specific model.

⟐ Answer edited 6月 29, 2026 at 3:33 GMT-7

The only thing I need to know will Apple Repair Assistant say "Unfinished repair" and complain about locked screen chip or something else. I saw people say its gonna run fine its still just for iPhone and theres new policy in tahoe 26 about it. Please someone who had expirience with, help.

P.S.: Where I live, there is a common scam where Apple devices are remotely locked through iCloud. The seller even showed me the original purchase payment from his banking app, so he may actually be the original owner and a victim of this scam. We also don’t have Apple Authorized Service Providers here, so there is no official way to request Activation Lock removal.

⟐ Commented 6月 29, 2026 at 3:17 GMT-7

I’m looking for some help with a MacBook Pro 13” Retina (2017, Touch Bar model).

I recently replaced the battery. The replacement went smoothly, and after reconnecting everything and checking the connections multiple times, the MacBook powers on normally and correctly recognizes the new battery.

However, since the battery replacement, I’ve been experiencing the following issues:

• The keyboard does not work at all.
• The trackpad does not work and does not physically click (it feels completely locked).
• The right cooling fan does not appear to work properly.
• On every startup, the left fan immediately ramps up to a very high speed and keeps spinning loudly, regardless of system load.

The MacBook itself boots and operates normally with an external keyboard and mouse, and the battery is detected correctly by macOS.

I’ve already reopened the MacBook and checked the battery and flex cable connections, but I haven’t found anything obviously disconnected or damaged.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a battery replacement? Could this be related to the trackpad flex cable, keyboard/trackpad connector, fan connector, or perhaps a sensor that is no longer being detected?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered 6月 28, 2026 at 16:21 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 28, 2026 at 15:18 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 28, 2026 at 13:44 GMT-7

Actually I need the exact part of the LCD panel not the entire display assembly.

I think apple uses LP116WH4-TPA1 or AUO B116XW05

But can someone who had replace this or ifixit expert who have teardown the MacBook air 11" please comfirm or state the actual part number of the LCD panel.

⟐ Commented 6月 28, 2026 at 0:45 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 27, 2026 at 19:06 GMT-7

I have a MacBook Air M1 2020 (A2337) with a keyboard issue. The 3, E, and D keys not work. These three keys are aligned vertically on the keyboard. I want to mention that this is how I purchased the macbook with this problem. I thought I could clean each key individually and solve the problem, but it seems my idea didn't work.

What I have already checked:

• The MacBook has never had any liquid damage.
• I removed the individual keycaps and inspected the mechanisms underneath.
• The rubber domes and key mechanisms look perfectly fine.
• There are no signs of corrosion or dirt.
• I opened the laptop and inspected the inside, which is also very clean.
• I disconnected and reconnected the keyboard flex cable, but the issue remains.
• All other keys on the keyboard work normally.

Since the affected keys are in the same vertical line (3, E, D), I am wondering if this could be a keyboard matrix issue or a failed row/column circuit.

Has anyone experienced the same problem on an A2337 MacBook Air M1? Is there any repair possible without replacing the entire keyboard or top case?

Any advice or schematics would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

⟐ Answer edited 6月 27, 2026 at 14:43 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6月 27, 2026 at 13:24 GMT-7

I have an iMac 2009, 21,5" which has been working well until last week. First there was some flickering and sometimes a black display. Since yesterday the display seems not to work anymore.

I have found the apple technicians guide for this iMac online and tried some of the solutions described there. I did a SMC/PVRAM Reset, but this did not solve the problem.

To determine if it's the gpu I connected an external monitor -> everyhing working fine on the external monitor.

It seems that the LED backlight isn't working anymore, because if you use a flashlight you can see everything on the internal screen.

I asked at a local repair store but they told me (without looking at the device...) that it was either the LCD panel, which would cost almost 500€/650$ to replace or the SATA/Board (Logic board?) which would even be more expensive.

My question is whether it's possible to determine if it is the logic board, ta cable connection, the Backlight controller or the LCD-Panel.

Thanks fpr your answers,

Max

⟐ Commented 6月 27, 2026 at 12:28 GMT-7

I've removed the power supply and I'm measuring the voltage. With no load, they all read 11.88V (any of the right pins with any of the left pins). Then I press the switch on button, all pins go down a little (like 11.82V) but the rightmost left pin + any of the right pins read ~9.22 for one second, they go up to 11.88V, then down again, then up and down, etc.

In a picture I've found on the internet, this "rightmost left pin" is marked as ground.

The point is: is this behavior right? Should the ground pin have 12V, 0V, or what?

Ps.: I'm from Brazil and English is not my first language.

Red: negative pins
yellow: neutral (? maybe not) pin
blue: positive

PSU details

Model details

Voltage reading between any one positive and one negative pin

Voltage between neutral and any positive pin when computer is trying to boot up. The reading fluctuates between 11.8V and 9.2V consistently - i.e., when trying to boot up voltage goes down, fan spins briefly, stop, voltage goes up, rinse and repeat

Reading between any negative pin and neutral pin when the process described above is happening. Voltage goes from zero to 2.5V at the same time the above process is going from 11.8V to 9.2V

Demonstration of how I'm measuring things. In this example, one negative pin (black probe, left), one positive pin (red probe, right)

mobo for reference (side 1)

mobo for reference (side 2)

Extra information: all tests were done with RAM installed and with no RAM installed, same results. Also, sometimes, for no clear reason (at least to me), after probing the mobo randomly with my multimeter (hoping some fairy could tell me what's wrong :-D ), the mini boots up - I hear the chime. But after turning it off and then on again, the miracle stops working.

⟐ Edited by author 6月 27, 2026 at 11:30 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 6月 27, 2026 at 16:19 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 6月 26, 2026 at 18:05 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 26, 2026 at 15:03 GMT-7

I’m hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a serious issue.

About a week ago, I purchased a complete display assembly from iFixit for my 16-inch MacBook Pro (Late 2023) and followed the repair guide to replace the screen. The repair appeared to be successful. The MacBook powered on normally and I used it daily for about a week without any problems.

This morning, I initiated a macOS Tahoe update. During or after the update process, the computer became completely unresponsive.

Current symptoms:

• No signs of life at all.
• Screen remains black.
• No startup chime.
• No keyboard backlight.
• No response when opening the lid.
• No response when holding the power button for 10+ seconds.
• No visible indication that the machine is charging.

My biggest concern is that I do not have a recent backup of my data.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced a MacBook Pro becoming completely unresponsive after a macOS Tahoe update?
2. Could this be related to the display assembly replacement, even though the computer worked perfectly for a week afterward?
3. Are there any recovery steps I should try before opening the machine again?
4. Is there a way to revive the system using DFU Restore or DFU Revive, and if so, would that preserve my data?
5. If the logic board has failed, what are my options for recovering the data stored on the internal SSD?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to avoid making the situation worse and would like to preserve my data if possible.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented 6月 26, 2026 at 14:22 GMT-7

I recently picked up a 2009 MacBook Pro 15”. El Capitan is telling me to replace the battery now. Although the battery is at 100 percent and only has 257 cycles on it. Is it really a battery issue for why the MacBook is shutting down after a few seconds (sometimes minutes) without it plugged in? Or is it something else? I also gave a third party application saying that the battery has about 4 minutes left(and going up for some reason), 10.8 years old, the original max is 6500 mAH, the current max is 65035 mAH, and the current charge is 65035 mAH. This app has never done this for me, so I’m not sure what’s wrong.

⟐ Answered 6月 26, 2026 at 7:07 GMT-7

I have a MacBook Pro 14-inch 2021 (A2442, M1 Pro) and I want to improve cooling with the easiest/safest method possible.

I don’t want to do a full logic board removal right now if I can avoid it. I’m planning the “add thermal pads” mod — placing high-conductivity thermal pads on top of the metal heatsink/radiator so heat transfers better to the aluminum bottom case (turning the whole bottom into an extra passive heatsink).

I’ve watched some of Your videos and others but there is not a video for my question (what i want).

My questions:

1.  For the easier bottom-case-only version, is 1.5mm or 2mm thick high W/mK pads (Thermalright / Gelid / Arctic style) the best choice? What size sheet should I get and where exactly on the heatsink should I place the pieces?

2.  I will leave Apple’s original grey paste on the main SoC and the black thermal gel (TCRS Carbon Black) on the RAM chips completely alone. I dont wanna touch them i want to add more too cool it down.

4.  What kind of real-world gains have people seen on the 14” M1 Pro specifically (temps, fan noise, sustained performance)?

5.  If the pad mod isn’t enough later, is the full heat sink replacement guide the right next step, and do you recommend Noctua NT-H2 or Arctic MX-6?

I will make pictures when i do this and share it with you here so people to know excactly what to do.

I want to share my exp. With the chat bot i think i have all answers to my questions i have what i need but you people can read as well and maybe my questions can help.

This is a conversation with AI asking question of how to apply thermal pads with Pics. And extra questions.

Venelin Valkanov

https://fixbot.ifixit.com/chat/f9a4e89e-...

Any ideas?

⟐ Answered 6月 25, 2026 at 6:30 GMT-7