My grinder is not similar to the ones in the instructions. It's the same model, but it looks different inside. The blades are fasten with something that looks like a plastic nut on top. I´ve tried pulling on the blades, but it doesen´t seem to work. I´ve also tried to undo the nut, my tools are causing damage to the nut.

Do anyone know if this is a nut, or pulling harder is the solution? And if so, do anyone know if it is a right or left threaded nut (normal or lynx)?

My problem with the grinder is that the blades wont turn. The motor is working, but of some reason, either the rotor in the motor or the blade assy is stuck.

Thanks!

⟐ Commented April 26, 2026 at 18:48 MST

I found mentions of the motor not being properly aligned.

The official FAQ states: The motor might not be in the correct position. Check if the water tank is filled and if the drip tray is in place. Turn the appliance OFF and then ON again. Then simultaneously press the button for My-Coffee and the on/off button for more than 2 seconds. The motor will move into the correct position. Insert the brewing unit again and check that it is correctly locked in position.

However, this proposed solution did not reset the motor position in my case.

I found that the locking handle of the brewing unit moves a metal lever.

This metal lever engages a button in the machine.

By carefully pressing this button (i used the handle of a small spoon), the motor reset to the correct position.

Long story short: I don't have a question, and just wanted to post this here for future reference.

⟐ Commented April 26, 2026 at 2:45 MST

⟐ Answer accepted April 22, 2026 at 10:13 MST

Model Number: 501015

Serial Number: 15018445

I have held on to this product in the hope I can fix it + bring it back to life. The signal is working when I plug it in at the mains. It appears the motor just won't operate as it should. I've looked inside the lid but it seems impossible to get beyond its exterior. Can you suggest if it's worth keeping hold of or not?

Thank you in advance

O

⟐ Commented April 21, 2026 at 12:35 MST

⟐ Answer accepted April 21, 2026 at 4:51 MST

This is my third machine I’ve received from Keurig support and it’s still happening. I’ve done all the needle cleaning, reseting, descaling, and many other fixes. The unit is not even 3 months old.

I’m just at a loss of what to do because I don’t see many people having the same problem. I’m also sick and tired of wasting perfectly good K Cups! Anybody have ideas how to permanently fix this?

EDIT & SOLUTION: I've been able to resolve the issue using a work around. This is not a fix and I don't know why Keurig hasn't fixed it after years of this happening.

When using a milk based K Cup, press it into the bottom by hand so the K Cup is punctured. Pull it up and rotate 90º and close the lid. This gives the K Cup two holes and much less pressure. It has worked perfectly since I've been doing this.

⟐ Answered April 20, 2026 at 18:52 MST

My Kenwood Chef XL is leaking oil from the gearbox.

According to this answer (Oil leak top of machine), the grease in the gear box might have dissolved to oil, and as the gear box seems to be unsealed, that oil is leaking. If that's the diagnose, then the way to fix it would be, to either replace the gear box (which sounds appealingly easy), or to open that gearbox, clean it, and put grease in again.

Unfortunately, the technically easier way of purchasing a new gearbox seems to not be simple; they seem to be hard to get, and also not cheap. So, what remains, is the pathway to open it up, clean, re-grease, and (omg) re-assemble in a way that it works.

Ignoring my fear of having to re-assemble those potentially millions of tiny cogwheels that might await me under the hood, I firstly wonder now, how to open the gearbox: I can see 6 phillips screws, but two of them are hidden under a big white plastic cogwheel. The gap between the cogwheel and the screw head is only about 5mm, so not much chance to get a screwdriver in between. I have carefully tried to pull it up, but it sits pretty tight, and I have little desire to break it.

Does anyone have a hint?

⟐ Answered April 20, 2026 at 18:48 MST

I am troubleshooting a professional coffee machine (Melitta C35) control board based on the Freescale ColdFire MCF5232CVM100 (BGA package). The system is currently stuck at the initial "Please wait" screen and does not proceed to the main menu.

Hardware Details & Measurements:

·         MCU: MCF5232CVM100 (ColdFire V2 Core).

·         Flash: cFeon EN29LV160 (TSOP-48).

·         Power Rails:

o    VDD (Core): Measured 1.6V on the micro-capacitors surrounding the MCF5232.

o    VDDIO/Periphery: Stable 3.3V found across the board.

o    Analog/Other: 5V rail is present.

·         RTC Battery: Measured 3.29V (stable).

·         Debug Interfaces: The board provides a standard 26-pin ColdFire BDM header AND a 10-pin (2x5) Mini-BDM connector.

·         Service Port: External 9-pin RS-232 (DCE, Female).

Symptoms:

1.    On power-up, the display initializes and shows "Please wait".

2.    The board has a Reset button that toggles the 3.3V line, but the MCU remains in the same "Please wait" state after reset.

3.    I measured -5.6V on the TX pin of the RS-232 port, which indicates that the line driver is powered and the UART is likely initialized by the bootloader.

Questions for the community:

1.    Given that the display shows "Please wait", is it safe to assume the MCU has successfully initialized the FlexBus and started executing code from the external Flash?

2.    What are the typical reasons for a ColdFire V2 to hang at this stage? Could it be a checksum mismatch in the Flash or a timeout waiting for a peripheral (I2C/SPI)?

3.    Does the presence of both 10-pin and 26-pin BDM headers imply any specific debugging priority? Is one more suitable for a USBDM interface to dump the cFeon Flash?

4.    Are there any known "trap" states or Double Bus Fault indicators I can check via the BDM pins without a full debugger?

Thank you, Alex

⟐ Answered April 20, 2026 at 4:05 MST

Everything seems to work fine except for the steam.

It will produce hot water out of the water spout and will also do a full descale.

But when I choose the steam function or put the milk canister on it makes a funny noise like it has a blockage because when I stop it some steam comes out the back of the machine. I have always done the descales and changed O- rings when needed. Greased up the enfuser when was getting stuck, that fixed that. Put rubber grommet in suction straw on the milk canister that has a smaller hole in it to slowdown the milk feed so that it heats up more, got this from delonghi. Hot cuppachino now.

What do you think is the problem. Could it be the solenoid doing this.

The machine has a external push on water and steam spout.

This is the machine.

Also a milk jug.

⟐ Answered April 19, 2026 at 13:23 MST

Is it at all worth attempting to repair it or send it to be repaired?

⟐ Answered April 19, 2026 at 5:55 MST

⟐ Commented April 18, 2026 at 14:24 MST

⟐ Answered April 18, 2026 at 11:04 MST

⟐ Commented April 18, 2026 at 8:28 MST

edit

I managed to get it working but it’s started again. It grinds, sounds like it producing coffee, but no coffee is produced, water is in the tray and underneath the unit with very wet grounds in the bin. I’ve tried changing the grounds finer and courser. I’ve tried using ready ground coffee it’s doing the same. I’m googled eyed with googling for answers.

⟐ Commented April 16, 2026 at 9:27 MST

⟐ Commented April 13, 2026 at 10:25 MST

⟐ Commented April 11, 2026 at 8:25 MST

Can this be the same mosfet burnt that makes the grinder run forever or should i look for something else?